Pets planet

Dog Leash Training

2009-09-30T11:09:00.000-07:00

Dogs walk faster than humans can. Naturally, if you put them on a leash, they’ll start pulling to get to whatever they’re looking at faster. A dog, having what is called an opposition reflex, would lean on a pressure it feels on its neck and chest. Understanding this makes it clear that if you want to have a leisurely walk with your dog on a leash, you must begin dog leash training while your pet is still a few weeks-old puppy.

Begin by allowing your dog time to get used to the collar around his neck. When you put it on for the first time, your puppy will scratch, roll around or try to get it off. Make sure you fasten the collar securely and don’t remove it when the dog is trying to. When he finally calmed down and shows signs of being comfortable with it, you can remove the collar for a short while. This teaches the dog two important things: first, that the collar won’t come off when he wants it so he’d best get used to it and second, the collar is not a permanent attachment. Check the collar regularly to make sure it isn’t too tight. Your dog grows in size and you need to adjust the collar regularly.

When the dog is ready, attach a leash to the collar and allow the dog time to adjust to the leash. Allot a few minutes every day to for leash training with your puppy and have some treats handy. Your goal is to be able to walk around with your dog on a leash without him pulling at the other end. This means you should be able to stand still with your dog and walk around at your pace, not his.

To get started, fasten the collar securely around your pup’s neck and attach the leash. Hold the other end securely. Try and have the dog stand still beside you. When he starts to wander too far and pulls on the leash, call the dog back to your side and reward him with a treat when he does. When he finally is able to stand still beside you for the time you wish to, you can begin walking him around. When he wanders too far to the point of pulling on the leash, call him back to your side. Pull on the leash if needed. When the dog returns to a comfortable distance – walks beside you without pulling on the leash, reward him with a treat.

Do these training exercises with a reward system for several days or weeks or until your dog learns to consistently respect the leash. When your dog is finally able to stand still beside you or walk around your house or backyard with a loose leash, reward your dog with a lot of praise, hugs or pats and some treats. He is ready to be taken out for a walk.

Remember that to condition your dog to respect the leash, focus on allowing your dog to progress forward when the leash is loose. If you allow your pet to proceed forward when the leash is tight, you’re teaching him to pull.

Pet Safety for Traveling in Car

2009-09-30T11:01:00.001-07:00

1. Preparation: Don’t wait for the last minute! When you put it all together at the last minute that creates more anxiety and tension for your dog as well as you! When you are prepared your dog will have a more normal experience. If you planning to make hotel reservations there many pet-friendly hotels to choose from.

2. Car Safety: Items to consider having depending on your pet’s size and ability to ride in the car staying safe for both them, passengers and you: Pet Carriers, Car Barriers, Car Seats, Car Seat Belts. If you need to order any item on line, make sure you do it in plenty of time. If you are planning on going to a local pet store, again do it in plenty of time…for if they don’t have it and your pressing the clock, the anxiety is already high and you haven’t even left for your trip!

3. Take a long walk before driving off! A recently exercised dog will be in a more relaxed state during any long trip.

4. If your pet needs extra calming, instead of drugs from your pet’s vet, you may want to consider Lavender Scent. Any health food store has that and will not make him/her disoriented or feel uncertain during the trip.

5. Make sure your dog has access to water – enough to keep hydrated but not full. Bottled water is perfect. If you need feeders there are many to choose from that are effective and very low cost.

6. Don’t forget to bring your dog’s food, favorite toy and blanket to keep them happy and balanced.

7. Make sure your dog has clear and effective identification. Be sure that the identification has your contact information while you are still away from home.

8. Put together a doggy first aid kit for the trip. If you are not sure what that may include it’s best to call your vet for he or she knows your dog!

9. Always use a leash and stay with your pet at all times. Dogs are very curious and in new places may try to run off and explore. If you have trouble walking your dog any time you may want to consider mastering how to control your dog. If you need help in this area of controlling your dog in public feel free to email TravelinPaws and we can give you additional information.

10. Never ever leave your dog or any other pet or child in a hot car even if you roll the windows down. A car in the sun can reach temperatures of near 200 degrees causing heat stroke and even death to pets & humans left in them.

11. Never leave your dog alone and unattended in his or her carrier. Unfortunately kidnapping of your dog is a very real possibility. You may want to consider a GPS system to ensure your pet’s safety.

12. Ensure your dog has the chance to potty every few hours. We have noticed when the owner is calm and relaxed throughout the trip (and that includes the preparation!) the dog will also maintain a calmness. It is common in unfamiliar places like this your dog’s regular potty schedule will be interrupted and you don’t want any embarrassing issues. If traveling to a theme park check with employees about places setup for your dog to potty in. Most will have areas around the park for you to use.

13. Take a break every hour. This will allow them to not only relieve themselves but keep the circulation on all vital organs. Plus, they will learn by smell that they are going to a different environment. It is important for a dog to experience the different temperatures, smells, and feelings that come with a new environment. This will help make them feel that they are part of the process of moving to a new area. Once the sun goes down, you can go eight hours non-stop!

14. Once you arrive at your hotel, or family/friends home, take your dog for a walk! If you are not sure where to go, ask the pet friendly hotel.

If you are driving to the beach:

1. Know the local laws. Not all beaches allow dogs! If they do, make sure you know if you have to keep them on a leash at all times or not.

2. Sunscreen: it’s not just for people. Pups need protection too! Talk with your veterinarian about protective goggles and canine sunblock.

3. Protect your dog from fleas. Sand fleas are abundant!

4. Get a Condition Check on the weather and ocean tides, undercurrents and Sea lice, jellyfish. All of these factors can pose just as much of a threat to dogs as they do to humans. Before you let your dog roam, verify with a lifeguard that the environment is safe.

5. Never let your dog drink the ocean Salt /bay / or lake water! Keep your dog hydrated with fresh water. Salt water can make them sick. Please watch for signs of dehydration. You may be use to being out in the sun and water, but your dog may not. Watch for signs. Sand and heat can make a normal exercise routine more strenuous. Trust your instincts. If something doesn’t feel right, call your dog back to rest in a shady spot.

6. Watch them at all times, for you don’t want them to eat things that wash ashore, like dead fish, fishing lines, plant life.

7. Be prepard to pick up after your dog! Keep the water and beach area clean for others. Respect goes both ways and it is noticed.

8. When you and your dog are done for the day give him/her a bath with fresh water. Find out if the beach has an area to do exactly that before going back to the car or hotel. If not, find out from the hotel where the best place is. The chemicals and sea water can be harmful to your dogs coat and general well being.

Pet Vaccinations Really Necessary

2009-09-30T10:53:00.000-07:00

Would you like to save money and have a healthier pet? Let me tell you a story. One day, my German Shepherd was asleep, as usual, when he suddenly started convulsing so intensely that I thought he must be dying. It went on for a few minutes, which seemed like forever. After, I couldn’t believe he was OK. It turned out to be a seizure, and it was then that I began to learn about alternative medicine for pets.

The most interesting thing I found out was that vaccinations seem to be a main cause of seizures in dogs, and annual vaccinations are not necessary, possibly causing more harm than good. After that incident, we stopped vaccinating and the seizures became less and less. I’m going to tell you how it’s in both your and your pet’s best interest to avoid yearly vaccinations. Annual re-vaccination is simply not necessary.

Here is an excerpt from page 205 of Current Veterinary Therapy XI, a reference considered to be the premier resource for the entire veterinary field.

A practice that was started many years ago and that lacks scientific validity or verification is annual revaccinations. ALMOST WITHOUT EXCEPTION THERE IS NO IMMUNOLOGIC REQUIREMENT FOR ANNUAL REVACCINATION. Immunity to viruses persists for years or for the life of the animal.â€

If you’re concerned about not vaccinating yearly, you can get proof of immunity even years after the shot, by a blood test called a titer. Many veterinarians, especially holistic vets, will provide these tests. See http://www.AlternativesForAnimals.com for a directory of holistic vets.

Overvaccination can even cause more harm than good. This is something that almost all holistic vets agree upon, and some of the top vets in the country attribute many health problems to vaccines.

Dr. Richard Pitcairn, a holistic pioneer and well respected vet who researched immunology extensively, believes that the biggest factor contributing to epilepsy in dogs is yearly vaccinations. (1) Many seizures happen within a few weeks of dogs getting their shots.

According to this theory that overvaccination causes harm, vaccines work with immunity, and overvaccination weakens the immune system. This in turn causes auto-immune problems in cats and dogs like skin problems, hair loss, tumors, and arthritis. A weakened immune system leaves your pet open to all kinds of potential health problems. (2)

Why do almost all conventional vets recommend yearly vaccinations? It’s been the industry standard. According to veterinarian Dr. Carolyn Blakey, it accounts for up to 80% of a vet’s business. To recommend less frequent vaccination, vet businesses would take a big financial blow.

If it concerns you to avoid vaccinations, are there any alternatives? There are a couple options. Some holistic vets follow a modified program of vaccinations, giving them at less frequent intervals.

Another option is homeopathic. Homeopathic nosodes are a remedy administered to pets that are believed to assist in disease prevention. Nosodes are made from the actual virus, just like a vaccine, but are made differently and are totally safe.

According to Donna Starita, DVM, a leading homeopathic vet, many studies show homeopathic nosodes to be just as effective or more so than conventional vaccines in preventing disease. (3)

Some breeders, such as author Celeste Yarnall, Ph.D., that are interested in more natural methods use exclusively nosodes in place of regular shots. They swear by it’s effectiveness and they say their animals are much healthier than earlier generations that got shots. (4)

So, it’s OK to question the necessity of yearly pet vaccinations, with their questionable necessity and potential adverse effects on your pet’s health. This is the beginning of this movement, and over the coming years, it’s my opinion that well probably see more movement away from such frequent vaccination. Some veterinary schools are already changing their curriculum to advocate changes in vaccination frequency. In the end, it will save us all money, and weâ€™ll have healthier pets.

So next time you get that little reminder card in the mail that your pet is due for their shots, think twice! And switch your pets care to a vet that is more careful about the use of vaccines.

Heatstroke in Dogs

2009-09-30T10:40:00.001-07:00

When a dog is incapable of releasing heat from his body and warms himself up too much, it is commonly known as a heatstroke. This can lead to harm to his body organs as they also end up getting heated. This heating up can even result in a dog’s untimely death.

You must look for signs that tell you whether he is suffering from a heatstroke or not. If he is panting too much and the panting appears to be very heavy, if he has a high pulse rate or if he has intense red gums, he has a heatstroke. Your dog might also look lifeless and drained, which is similar to the human condition during a heatstroke. If you ignore these signs, your dog might even fall unconscious.

House him in an airy and cool place. Also keep him constantly soaking in water so that the heat wears off. Another good idea would be to put him in a tub of ice for a little while. But do not overdo this. If his temperature comes back to a normal 103 degree Celsius then pull him out of the tub. If you do not maintain vigilance, then he might end up with hypothermia.

The dog should be taken to a vet as soon as he cools down and it is all right to move him. Young dogs and older ones are more susceptible to heatstroke and should be carefully looked after.

Even once the heating period is over, the dog faces risks of brain damage and lack of fluids, so look out for the symptoms. But if he doesn’t already suffer from it, it is very easy to avoid a heatstroke. You must give him plenty of water to drink and keep him in a cool place. He should not be overworked on a hot day. These simple things will keep him cool and healthy.

Pets Can Get Health Insurance Coverage, Too

2009-09-29T11:10:00.001-07:00

The Insurance Information Institute Web site says Americans spend $40 billion a year on 150 million pets they regard as “valued members of the family.”

Pet health policies are similar to human health insurance policies and include annual premiums, deductibles, co-pays and caps. Their cost is based on the animal’s age, health profile and level of care owners pay for. The older the animal the higher the premium. There are exclusions for pre-existing conditions and some deny coverage to breeds susceptible to hereditary conditions such as hip dysplasia.

Policies are available for dogs, cats, rabbits, ferrets, exotic birds, reptiles, potbelly pigs and sundry rodents. Pets can be insured at six to eight weeks of age. Some companies impose age limits, others don’t, and additional pets are covered at a reduced rate after the first pet is enrolled. There are three types of pet health coverage.

Traditional: Plans are similar to human health insurance policies. Companies are licensed in the states where they do business and subject to the state’s rules and regulations. There are three levels of coverage. Basic coverage is cheapest, but provides the lowest reimbursements for procedures. It pays for accidental injury, poisoning and illnesses. Typical policies have caps on reimbursements per accident or illness, and caps on total reimbursements per policy term. Annual premiums on healthy 3-year- olds are $140 with $75 to $100 deductibles. “Comprehensive coverage” is more expensive, but reimburses more. This is $250 per year with deductibles of $75 to $100 annually. “Pet well care protection” reimburses for preventive care: physical exams, flea and heartworm prevention and vaccinations — running at $144 per year.

HMO coverage: Some vets offer wellness packages discounting vaccinations, spay/neutering and dental cleanings. Some offer geriatric health checkups. These are not insurance policies and are not subject to the same rules and regulations required of insurance companies.

Discount plans: These offer a discount for veterinary services and some supplies. One national program offers 25 percent savings on veterinary services including surgeries and hospitalizations and up to 50 percent on pet supplies. You must go to participating veterinarians and pet vendors under these programs.

When the Chips Are in, Your Pets Are Safe

2009-09-29T10:48:00.000-07:00

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Spring is in the air and it’s a great time for an outdoor escape — just not for your beloved pets.

If your dog or cat has cabin fever, nice weather might be just enticing enough for them to pull a disappearing act.

But local veterinarians say a few safeguards on your part could prevent even the sneakiest of furry flight risks.

Puppy Precautions
Dogs are used to the outdoors and love getting their evening walks or laps around the backyard. Most dog owners can tell you they’ve initiated their fair share of high-speed chases around the block.

One way to keep your pup safe, even if he strays, is to get a microchip implant.

“I’m a big believer in microchipping,” said Lauren Johnson, veterinarian at Southern Hills Veterinary Hospital in Tulsa, Okla.

A microchip is inserted underneath the skin of the dog or cat, just above the shoulder blades, said Mark Shackelford, a veterinarian at 15th Street Veterinary Group in Tulsa. The chip contains a unique ID number that matches to the owner information.

Then, if a lost pet is discovered at a shelter, workers there can scan it for a microchip.

But since many companies offer microchips, some worry that a lost pet might turn up with an incompatible chip reader.

“Most chip companies are getting universal readers, so they can read other brands,” Johnson said.

And most veterinarian hospitals and practices also have chip readers, Shackelford added.

“I think almost every veterinary hospital, and certainly the animal shelters like the Tulsa Animal Shelter, have microchip readers,” he said. “The beauty of microchipping is if the dog gets loose and loses his collar with the tags, he still has the microchip.”

Cat Caution
Your indoor kitten also might try to sneak her way outside this spring and summer. But you can also thwart those attempts. The main reason your feline might want to escape is if it isn’t spayed or neutered, Johnson said.

“A cat in heat is just miserable, and they stay in heat until they’re bred.”

If They’re Lost
Putting up visible signs in the neighborhood is a great way to start your lost-pet search.

“Color pictures are the best because they draw attention,” Johnson said. “And they should have very big lettering. They shouldn’t have to get out of the car and look.”

Natal Care of a Cat and her Newborn Kittens

2009-09-29T10:36:00.000-07:00

The first two to three weeks are the most crucial for your mother cat and her newborn kittens. The kittens should be developing rapidly, and the queen will usually show symptoms of any post-partum problems by this time.

Keep the mother cat and her babies in a quiet part of the house; a separate room is ideal, and make sure the room is warm enough. Chilling is one of the most critical dangers to newborn kittens. Let the mother cat set the pace for your attentions. If she is a longtime companion and resident, she may welcome your visits. A rescued stray or fostered cat may prefer that you stay away for the most part. As long as the kittens are nursing frequently and appear to be thriving, they will be

The Nursery

Use a large enough box to comfortably hold the mother cat and her kittens. Stack clean towels to line it. The towels will become soiled quickly as the kittens defecate and it will be easy to remove the top towel to reveal a clean layer. The photo shows a barn cat and her kitten safe in a cardboard box.

Keep the mother cat’s litter box, food, and water bowls close by, and continue to feed her a high quality kitten food, supplemented with KMR.

Nursing Newborn Kittens

Each kitten will choose its own teat for nursing at birth and will continue to nurse there by seeking out its own scent. It will nurse every two to three hours. A thriving kitten will quickly develop a fat tummy and will sleep peacefully.

Elimination

For the first three weeks, the mother cat will lick each kitten around the abdomen and anal area after nursing to encourage elimination of waste. In her absence, this task would be yours, and would be accomplished with a warm, damp washcloth.

Development of Newborn Kittens

Three Day Old Kittens
Their eyes will start opening within three days. The umbilical cord will also fall off within this time. Their nervous systems are not fully developed and you will see them twitching during sleep. This is entirely normal, and indicates development of their nervous system and muscles.

Seven to Fourteen Days
The kittens will start crawling around and by two weeks they will be attempting to stand. Their teeth will be starting to come in during this time. You will be able to feel tiny nubs.

Three Weeks and Older
By three weeks the kittens will start walking around and actively playing. They can be introduced to wet food at this time, supplemented with KMR, although they still will be actively nursing. They can also be introduced to the litter box at this age.

Cat Pregnancy: Development of the Embryo

2009-09-29T08:53:00.001-07:00

The entire development of the embryo is a fascinating study with scientific names for each stage, but for brevity and better understanding, we’ll concentrate here on the basics.After fertilization, the zygote (formed by the uniting of the sperm and the ovum) begins to form a somewhat ball-shaped mass of cells, known as the cell mass. Once the cell mass passes 16 cells, it is called the morula. The morula enters the uterus and plants itself in the uterine wall by secreting an enzyme which dissolves a pocket of tissue in the lining of the uterus to form a “cradle” for the morula. In the cat, the egg reaches the uterus in five days and implantation occurs approximately two weeks after fertilization. Also, since the cat is multiparous (bearing more than one offspring during pregnancy), this process will be repeated simultaneously by multiple zygote-

morulas, possibly from matings with different male cats, or toms. Not all embryos will survive implantation – this is truly a case of “survival of the fittest.”

The embryo continues to develop, with the more highly evolved cells of the cranium and thoracic regions developing early. The embryo floats within a fluid filled cradle of two sacs, the amnion, and the allantois. Amniotic fluid contains water, protein, sugar, salts, fat, and traces of urea. The allantoic fluid, is filled mainly with excretory products from the fetus.

The placenta, the source of attachment between the maternal and fetal bloodstreams, develops later. The placenta is the “highway” over which oxygen, nutrients, and fetal waste interchange

Finally, when all the organic structures have been formed, the embryo becomes the fetus, and the first trimester is completed. From now until birth, the major activities will be development (the second trimester) and growth (the third trimester).

Care of the Cat During Pregnancy

If you are fostering a cat or have welcomed a stray pregnant queen into your home, you’ll need to have a veterinary “well-check.” It is important in the case of a stray, to have her tested for FeLV and FIV and to discuss the pros and cons of vaccination.

Assuming you have a healthy queen, the best care you can give her is a diet high in nutrients, along with plenty of fresh, clean water. During the final 20 or so days, she should be switched to a premium quality kitten food, and continued on it until after the kittens have been weaned. Feed small, frequent meals. Her abdomen is full of kittens, and she won’t be able to eat much at any one time. She should also be kept indoors at all times.

Impending Birth of Kittens

As your queen nears her time for giving birth, she will exhibit a few signs that will give you clues to the impending arrival of kittens. The first stage of labor lasts from 12 to 24 hours, and may include the following “symptoms:”

Nesting
She may start snooping around in closets and secluded areas for an appropriate place to bear her kittens. The time is ripe for you to prepare an area for her in a private place, with a box or basket lined with soft towels. She may decide instead to give birth on the cold, hard floor of your bathroom, but at least you have tried to accommodate her needs.
Increased affection
She may suddenly become very loving, and want to be near you at all times. Don’t be surprised though, if a previously affectionate cat becomes withdrawn and seeks solitude. Either personality change may be completely normal.
Decreased Activity.
Queenie may decide she’d rather sleep most of the time. She may also lose interest in food.
Milk Discharge from Nipples
Your cat’s nipples will have become enlarged and pink about the third week of pregnancy; 24 hours or so before birth, she may show a milky discharge. This discharge may come even earlier in cats that have given birth several times.
Drop in Temperature. The normal temperature in cats is between 100.4°F and 102.5° F. A dramatic drop in her rectal temperature is a sure indicator that birth is imminent

Top Five Cat Breeds

2009-09-29T08:42:00.000-07:00

Choosing a cat breed can be a bit daunting, especially if you don’t know very much about cats! When considering a cat, you must be sure to choose a breed that will best suit your lifestyle. Some breeds require more physical activity than others, and some require much more grooming. Look below to find the top five most popular cat breeds. You will also find a brief description about each breed’s grooming requirements and personality type.

The Oriental is one of the most popular cat breeds around. This breed is a very intelligent, loyal companion and tends to bond deeply with its family. It has large, pointed ears, and although its body is very sleek, it is still quite a muscular breed.

The American Shorthair is extremely popular with families, as they tend to be very affectionate and friendly. The American shorthair originally was a working breed, mostly for mouse hunting, which explains the agile muscular structure and short hair. They do need a little exercise, but most are quite content being a lap cat.

The Birman breed is thought to have originated from Burma. It is perhaps best recognized by its blue eyes, white body, and smoky-brown face, ears, legs, and tail. Birmans possess a long, sturdy body structure with long, mat-resistant hair. They love to play and are quite gentle. They are affectionate without being too needy.

If you’re looking for a very affectionate, cuddly cat, then a Sphynx may be the breed for you. Although they look like they have no fur, they actually have a peach-like fuzz all over their body. As they don’t have much hair to protect their skin, they should strictly be kept indoors. This breed does require a bit of extra care, particularly with room temperature, as this breed can easily become too cold.

A very mild and gentle cat breed is the Ragdoll, appropriately named such as it can be quite floppy and relaxed when picked up. If you love a cat that accompanies you from room to room, this breed would likely be a wonderful match for you. They are very careful not to use teeth or claws when playing around, so they would also make an excellent cat for children.

Now that you have a better idea about the most popular, yet very different, breeds out there, hopefully you find choosing a cat to be a little less daunting than before. Be sure to remember that lifestyles are important factors to consider; so if you aren’t very active, you probably shouldn’t choose a cat that requires a lot of activity, and vice versa.

Winter Care for Wild Birds

2009-09-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

Here in Michigan and other temperate climates, winter survival is everything for wild birds. The search for food starts at dawn and continues till dusk. If a bird is able to eat enough, it will store enough energy to survive a cold winter’s night. It then starts all over for another day.

Wild birds or backyard birds depend on every seed, berry or insect it may find. With the continual decline of natural habitats, birds need our helping hands.

Caring and feeding for wild birds helps them to survive the winter and also gives you a sense of doing good. Helping out nature instead of taking from her.

Birds require food, fresh water, shelter from the elements and protection from predators.

FOOD: High energy food is important. Suet, peanuts, black oil sunflower seed all high energy food high in fat and protein. Nyjer thistle is a high source of energy for finches as well.

Cage feeders are designed to hold suet cakes, Tube and hopper feeders are designed to accommodate a variety of birds. Platform and peanut feeders are also available.

Pack down an area and toss some cracked corn and white millet for the ground scratching birds to enjoy.

FRESH WATER: I emphasize FRESH WATER here. With a lack of natural water sources available in cold winter months, water can be scarce. Fresh water even more so. While birds will and do eat snow, this drives down their body temperature and uses valuable energy to melt the snow and warm back up.

Offer up some water with a heated birdbath or put a heater in your current bath. heaters cost no more to run the a light bulb and can save a birds life. Look for heaters that come with a minimum three year guarantee.

SHELTER: From the harsh winter winds and a place to snuggle. Use your old Christmas tree, or hang a roosting box. Plant lots of bushes and trees for your birds to roost in. Evergreens work wonders here as a wind brake and protection from snow fall.

Most birds will die at night from a lack of food, water and protection. Food and water are life’s essentials, protection helps your birds to conserve vital calories.

PROTECTION: Birds need to feel safe from danger and offering protection will keep your birds coming back. Place your feeders and Fresh water source near trees and bushes. Out in the open. Enough for your birds to see if hawks are around and away from places where cats might hide.

By placing your feeding stations 10 to 20 feet from trees and shrubs, your birds have an open view and can escape most attacks from the air or the ground.

Research shows that birds get 25% of their food from human sources. How important is that 25% on any given winter’s night?

Backyard birding is a healthy hobby for all and just about anyone can feed the birds. A hobby that can last a lifetime.

Organic Pet Care

2009-09-29T07:52:00.001-07:00

According to statistics almost 10 millions tons of waste products that are the direct byproducts of cats and dogs take a tremendous toll on our environment annually. Experts note that exposes excrement can contaminate both soil and groundwater adding disease-carrying bacteria and parasites to them, while refuse that is bagged tends to lay idle in landfills. In addition, pets are frequently exposed to harmful levels of toxins due to the food and toy/product choices we owners make on their behalf. In fact, a recent 2008 study suggests that the hazardous toxic exposure for dogs and cat’s was significantly greater and more varied than it was for their owners…and that they say should prompt loving pet parents to take immediate precautions and action.

* Consider crafting their toys: Store-bought products are often manufactured in foreign lands that use lead and cadmium, that can be harmful to animals, especially those that chew on them and ingest the components. Time takes its toll at toxic chemicals and metals affect the nervous system, red blood cells and bowels, which may even be fatal. Can’t make your own toys at home. Consider “homemade” products…..those manufactured in the U.S.A. You can create your own using organic cotton and/or wool stuffing using an old-school sewing machine. You can even transform your old jeans, towels, socks or other stealthy fabrics into healthy playthings for Fido.

· Go Organic: Organic foods aren’t just for humans anymore. In fact, some pet food tainted with melamine that resulted in the illness and death of many family pets, just two or so years ago, got the attention of lots of loving pet owners. And, while the threat is no longer immenintly there, the need to choose wisely “IS”. Organic pet food reduces your pet’s exposure to growth hormones, antibiotics, and synthetic fertilizers. In addition, some agricultural experts suggest that the byproducts of producing traditional pet food proteins can compromise the water and soil supply. Experts suggest opting for USDA approved organic pet foods, which meet the same standards as human organics. They also recommend talking with your Vet about how to make some homemade kibble and bits for your pet, always keeping in mind that cats and dogs need special and specific combinations of nutrients that are often determined by a variety of factors including animal type, breed, and age. Still, nutritionally balanced homemade meals fare far better than bagged or canned varieties, primarily because the digestive systems of cats and dogs tend to process fresh, raw foods better than they do cooked foods. Plus, a healthy diet of balances raw foods will build their bodies’ resistance to worms. Again, just make sure to discuss options and recipes with your Vet first.

· Properly discard of doo-doo: Consider taking excrement to mills that offer pet-specific systems that rely on enzymes and heat to eradicate dangerous pathogens from fecal matter and transform it into safe fertilizer. Another option is buring your pup’s poop away from gardens and water sources, keeping it clear of coming in potential contact with humans. It’s best to discard waste in biodegradable poop baggies comprised of cornstarch plastic, since these bags tend to be more sustainable than petroleum-based polyethylene.

Cat poo should always be bagged and placed in the trash since it can carry an infectious parasite that’s harmful to fetuses and those with weaker immune systems. Keep in mind that a large portion of the nearly 2 million tons of nonbiodegradable kitty litter that’s hauled off to landfills yearly contains quartz silica, which is recognized by the California Environmental Protection Agency as carcinogenic to pets and humans alike. Experts suggest biodegradable litter made from recycled newspaper, sawdust pellets, and corn. Another option: chemical-free, wheat based kitty litter available in natural food markets. For odor removal, simply dust kitty litter with baking soda.

· Protect your pet from pests: Experts note that flea and pest prevention can be potentially more harmful to pets and humans than the pest itself. In fact, many researches suggest that many animals have been injured, some fatally by the exposure to these pesky pesticides often found in flea collars, aerosol sprays and other pest control products. And, even The Environmental Protection Agency has deemed these products “dangerous” for kids, since they are the ones that most often play with pets and then rub their eyes, mouth, etc.

Instead of products containing carbaryl, propoxur and tetrachlorvinphos, consider sprinkling a hint of brewer’s years, fresh garlic or flaxseed oil in your pet’s food, since fleas hate the smell and taste. Experts add that fleas also hate the smell of pennyroyal, lavender, mint, rosemary, sweet woodruff, and ceder…so you may want to add some of these scents to a collar or bandana and place it around your pet’s neck or rub the dried herbs into your pet’s coat. Another option is an herbal flea collar sold at a host of health food stores and pet stores respectively. If fleas have already gotten to your pet, sprinkle all pet beds, carpets, and lounging areas with boric acid salts….known to kill flea larvae sand harming pets or people.

Getting Pet Smart About Pet Emergencies

2009-09-29T07:44:00.001-07:00

Most of us have “some” training in dealing with emergencies, human emergencies that is. But, honestly, how many of us are properly prepared to deal with a pet emergency? Chances are most of us wouldn’t even know where to begin.

Still, pets are a big part of our family and life, and experts strongly suggest get pet smart in case of emergency.

They recommend starting out simply and simply placing important emergency numbers where they can be easily seen and accessed. And, that means finding and after-hour veterinary clinic in your area; as well as keeping directions to the clinic easily accessible too. And, while not always easy, experts suggest it’s best to call ahead.

In addition, experts add that now many fire departments offer pet-sized smoke inhalation masks and that the American Red Cross offers classes first aid for pets. In fact, their website references guides geared at teaching owners how properly dispense medications, recognize and emergency situation and perform CPR and first aid; as well as how to address and treat common emergency issues requiring immediate attention

They (the experts) add that pet first aid kits are available for purchase at Red Cross locations throughout New York, Connecticut, Oklahoma, Texas, and San Francisco. But, for those who don’t live in these areas and need to get one immediately you can create one at home using simple supplies such as Q-tips, guaze pads, a thermometer, tweezers, rolls and bandages, hydrogen peroxide, antibiotic ointment, instant cold packs and rags or rubber tubing that can be used as a tourniquet.

Experts go on to suggest that pet owners get familiar with what is normal for pets, including the resting pulse and hart rate for cats (150-200 beats per minute), while for small to large dogs it varies from (60 to 120 beats per minutes).

A dog’s pulse can be found near the inner hind legs and is usually taken by counting the number of pulses per 15 seconds and multiplying it by four. And, normal temperature for cats and dogs falls between 100 to 102.5 degrees.

Wondering if there’s really something wrong? Look for the following signs: blood, diarrhea or black stool that has a tar-like consistency. Should your pet experience shock you’ll notice a weak pulse, short, shallow breathing, nervousness and a confused appearance. Internal problems, such as bleeding are often indicated by bleeding from the mouth, rectum or blood in the urine.

Should your pet get seriously hurt, handle with extreme caution and care and make sure to keep cool. Calm and quiet…noises may only further freak you pet out and some bay even bit or scratch. Experts suggest trying to get a “grip” on your pet with a muzzle, if necessary, but make sure your pet is not having difficulty breathing, in which case experts suggest keeping the muzzle off. You can also use a blanket or towel to calm your pet, especially since keeping him or her warm, quiet, and restrained will put them somewhat at ease until you can obtain professional help.

According to The Humane Society even pet owners need to be extremely cautious when dealing with a very sick or hurt pet, pointing out the need to pay special attention to body language and sounds to help you pinpoint the cause of pain and where it’s coming from. Refrain form making fast movements that may be a bit “jerky”, instead move slowly and with determined ease. Remember, pets much like kids, can lose their composure if you lose your cool becoming even more nervous and scared.

Nutrition For Dogs

2009-09-29T07:35:00.001-07:00

To keep your dog healthy, you really need to look at the dog food you are feeding. You need to understand a dog's particular nutritional requirements and how to address them.

In order for your dog to grow, they need essential nutrients. Without these nutrients, your dog may experience poor health, stunted growth, shortened lifespan, and allergy symptoms.

Dogs like most animal life forms need the five basic nutrients for survival: carbohydrates, protein, fats, vitamins, and minerals. These nutrients serve different functions in sustaining the health and well-being of your dog.

Proteins are the building blocks of your dog's health. Proteins consist of amino acids and are necessary in an animal's diet since animals cannot synthesize all the amino acids they need - they must obtain essential amino acids from their food.

You need to make sure your dog food has an adequate amount of protein, mainly made up from animal, not grain, sources. But like all things, too much is not good and can lead to obesity (since protein that is not used is converted to fat) and has been linked to temperament problems in dogs.

Fats are used to deliver other nutrients to the body as well as a source of energy. So much bad press about fats in diets has most of us thinking to avoid them as much as possible. But this is not true. Fats are necessary in diets, for both humans and their canine companions. It's the kind and amount of fat that can lead to health problems and obesity. Your dog needs the correct fats for proper kidney function, to transport fat-soluble vitamins to cells, and for a healthy skin and coat.

Carbohydrates are your dog's main energy source. But like fats, not all carbs are created equal - at least in your dog food. Look for dog foods that have whole grains, not by-products of the grain, as these contain less of the necessary nutrients that your dog needs. Certain grains, such as corn, soy, and wheat, are common sources of carbs in your dog food and also common allergy triggers.

Vitamins and Minerals are necessary for optimal health and should naturally be supplied by your dog food. Most dog foods have vitamins and minerals added in. However, these diminish in both quality and quantity the longer the dog food is opened. So your dog may not be getting enough by the end of the bag of dog food. Which is where specially formulated vitamin supplements for dogs come in to play. These ensure your pet gets all the elemental vitamins and minerals they need to stay healthy.

About the Author

Just like with humans, dogs need a balanced diet - the correct ratio of proteins, carbs, fats, vitamins and minerals. And it is up to you to make sure his dog food is healthy. To learn more about healthy dog foods and how to read dog food ingredients, visit the Healthy Dog Food blog - helping you learn how to keep your dog healthy through nutrition.

Parrot cage, bird toys

2009-09-15T07:58:00.001-07:00

Your great aunt died and somehow decided to leave her farm to you. Maybe she felt a bond because your mother was the closest thing she had to a daughter. But even after sixty years, the house is still in good condition and not too out-of-date. You decide to live there and try to fulfill your dream of becoming a novelist. But you'll want an excuse to move away from the computer every so often. And last night, your father suggested you put some of the money your great aunt left you to start some kind of side business. The house has this huge screened in porch, and you think raising parrots would be the perfect answer. But, what are you going to need for in parrot cages?

You will want to buy metal parrot cages. Metal cages are the easiest to clean and the most economical. You should look for cages that are in good shape, and don't have wires poking out or other things that could hurt your parrots. You will also want to make sure that your bird cages don't contain lead or other harmful materials. You will want the biggest cages you can afford. Parrots were made to fly around. You will need to make sure that the parrots can't get their heads through the wires. Parrots also like to curl up in a corner to sleep, so they really prefer square cages over round. Be sure to place several perches around the cages, so that your parrots will want to move around. One perch needs to be by the food and water. Other perches should be at varying heights.

You have heard people being called "bird brains" as an insult. However, birds are actually very intelligent beings that need almost constant stimulation. If you don't provide bird toys for your parrots, they are likely to pick up bad habits such as biting and nipping. So you will want to get some bird toys and routinely rotate them between the birds you have. All toys need to be safe for the bird to chew, meaning no dangerous dyes, and nothing the birds might choke on. Some birds love mirrors. Other birds enjoy puzzles, especially puzzles that allow them to find food. You can even use household goods as bird toys. Try frayed milk jugs, cardboard rolls, or bells you may have around the house.

You will want to get out and play with your parrots a couple of times a day. Let them enjoy flying around your house, without the confines of bird cages. Play with your birds and get to know them. Your prospective buyers will want to know something about the birds, and it will help you sell them better. So go to your pet store, or order online, and start setting up your bird business today. I'm sure you will find yourself enjoying it, and you may even keep a parrot for yourself.

Are You Ready for that Puppy

2009-09-15T07:50:00.001-07:00

Everyone thinks their breed or cross is the greatest. However, what is right for your family or lifestyle may not be right for someone else. Before you run out and get a dog you must stop and look at your lifestyle. Take a moment and read the following to help you decide if a dog will fit into your life.

Are you prepared for a puppy or dog?

1) Time Commitment: How much time each day do you have to devote to the animal? Are you willing to commit to the dog for the dog's life? What if you have to move? Puppies require far more work than adults. You must make time for classes, training, socializing, and activities. To get a puppy or dog and then leave him in a backyard with no socialization or effort on your part is cruel. Dogs are social animals and do best when part of the family. If you cannot devote time to raising baby, ensuring your dog is well trained and socialized for the next ten to fifteen years or more, do not get one. Remember that one series of obedience classes does not a trained dog make. Training and learning lasts the life of the dog.

2) Human Medical Issues: Are there any allergies or medical conditions in your family that could cause issues resulting in having to get rid of the dog? No breed is truly hypoallergenic. People with serious problems may not be able to tolerate ANY breed – regardless of what someone's ad would lead you to believe. If there are suspected health concerns, consult a doctor before considering a pet.

3) Cost: Can you afford a dog? Getting the puppy or dog is not the big expense. It is what follows that can drain your wallet: buying the crate and other necessary supplies; puppy inoculations every few weeks while the puppy is young; training classes (any where from $30 to over $100 depending on where you go); annual wellness checks and inoculations; feeding (the bigger the dog the bigger the food bill); medical emergencies (can easily run hundreds of dollars if not more). I spent $100 to adopt a dog and closer to $300 getting a big enough crate, enrolling in classes (yes, even instructors take their dogs to classes), vet checks, leash, collar, and extra toys… The dog was the cheap part!

4) Housing: Can you properly house the dog? Being chained in the back yard with a hut and water is not proper housing. Dogs are social animals and pets really should be part of the family pack. If you cannot make a dog a family member, keep him safely inside when you are not home and let him have plenty of exercise in a safely fenced area, reconsider. It is cruel to a dog to leave him outside all the time. Also, these dogs are more prone to become nuisance barkers and victims of "pranks" or theft.

5) Lifestyle: What is your lifestyle like? Are you an active family that spends time hiking and camping or going for long walks? Are you more sedentary? Some breeds require a lot of exercise daily – both physical and mental. The half hour walk given to a Bulldog is far from adequate for a Border Collie. A Bulldog will not be able to handle the strenuous hours of daily workouts a Border Collie requires. Research any breed thoroughly before getting – use several different sources as well. What one person or even a vet says about a breed may be totally erroneous. Look at books devoted to the breed; many breed-specific dog clubs have websites with plenty of information, etc. If you are looking at a cross, research the breeds you know are in the cross to give you an idea of what you are getting. And bear in mind that small does not equal less energy. Some giant breeds have lower activity level than many smaller breeds. Size is not always relevant when it comes to how much energy and exercise a dog requires.

6) Grooming: What about grooming? All dogs need grooming – even hairless breeds! Some breeds are quite a bit for the average person to handle and may require professional work (Poodles and Bichon Frisés for example). Others require only a few minutes of going over with a brush once a week as well as regular attention to teeth, ears and nails. All dogs shed to some extent. Even supposed "no shed" breeds will lose hair. Hair falls out of follicles – take a look at your own brush or how often do you pluck a strand off your jacket. Some breeds shed less than others. If you are a neat freak and cannot stand dust bunnies, consider a lower shedding breed. Also, coat length does not mean a breed will shed more or less. A short-coated breed can shed just as much as a medium to long coated one.

7) Need: Why do you want a dog? Companionship, participating in sports, protection? Again, you must research the breed or cross in regards to what you want. If you want a dog that can be trained for duck hunting a Collie may not be the right breed.

8) Experience: Are you an experienced dog owner or is this your first one? There are many breeds that are not appropriate for a novice for one reason or another. Many people see Border Collies (Babe) and Jack Russell Terriers (Frasier, Wishbone) and must have one. What about those 101 Dalmatians? Obviously these dogs must be great if they are in Hollywood! WRONG! What makes dogs excel in acting, Agility and other things often makes them more (sometimes FAR more) than the novice dog owner is prepared to handle. Thousands of Dalmatians, Border Collies and Jack Russells found themselves given up by owners who HAD to get on because of the image Hollywood gave them. Some breeds are self-willed and can be a challenge to work with. Not that they are bad but the owner needs to understand the breed. No breed is untrainable – regardless of what some surveys would have you think. Knowing the breed (or breeds that went into a cross) is a big step to understanding the dog and working with it.

9) Long Term: What will happen to the dog if you start a family? Are you just going to dump the dog or do what it takes to ensure he is ready for the new arrival? What if you have to move? Thousands of pets are given up because of a new child or move. Have you thought about the long-term needs of the dog?

10) Golden Years: What when the dog ages? Are you prepared to cope with the onset of old age or when the dog is no longer "useful" will you get rid of it. Can you handle the increased health issues that can go along with a senior dog? A dog will spend his life trying to please an owner. The least we can do is make their Golden years truly golden.

Now that you have thought all this through and have decided to get a dog, what should you look for?

I always urge people to seek out a rescue group or reputable breeder when choosing a dog. Here are a few things to look for when choosing a dog or puppy.

1) Age: Puppies should be no younger than eight weeks. A good breeder will not place puppies younger than that. Old school used to be six weeks was fine. But so much growth and development happens between six and eight weeks. Also think, puppies' eyes and ears open at about three weeks and they begin to test solids foods after that. A five or six week old puppy is barely weaned. The extra couple weeks with the dam and littermates can make a big difference overall. Also, puppies should have at least one set of shots before going to homes. The vaccine schedule for puppies is usually 6, 9 and 12 weeks with the first rabies booster being at 16 weeks. As for the other end of the age spectrum, older animals. I am a firm believer that any dog at any age – even a senior – will have something to offer. If you go to a rescue, look at an adult dog. Just because a dog is fully-grown does not mean they are past training. Adult dogs have better bladder control and more attention span than a young puppy. And puppies are only little for a short time! Sometimes puppies in rescue may have to be placed younger than eight weeks. This is an exception to the rule and many shelters will try to find foster care for young puppies if possible. The younger you get a puppy, the more work it will be and the more patience you must have with it. Ideally, no pup should be placed before eight weeks. If a "breeder" tried to insist otherwise, get out. It is amazing how many people have litters and try to place them young because of the work and expense involved. And keep in mind; in some places it is illegal to sell animals less than eight weeks.

2) Condition: The puppies or dogs should show NO signs of lameness, discharge from eyes, ears, nose, etc. They should have clean, shiny coats and be alert. Their stool should be firm. A good breeder or rescue group will have no issue if you wish to have your vet examine the animal before bringing it home. Many will insist you do. If you are going to a breeder, ask what tests were run on the parents to help ensure the healthiest dogs were bred. If there were no tests done at all, leave immediately. If there were no shots given to puppies, leave immediately. Also a good breeder will give you some form of health guarantee. Many will even have a lifetime guarantee as long as you are taking proper care of the animal. Are the dogs from lines that fit the breed standard correctly – ideally they dogs should have proven themselves in both the show ring as well as in some form of performance sport like Obedience or Agility. Now, look at the condition of the facility. Is it full of feces and looks unclean? Does it have a really offensive odor or smell too heavily of cleaners as if something was being hidden? Is there sign of pest infestation? What is the attitude of the people to the animals? What is the attitude of the animals?

3) Attitude: Is the person trying to place the pup or dog trying to push the animal on you? Is the person telling you both the pros and cons of the breed – or cross? I cringe when I hear statements like "This is the BEST dog for anyone." This is far from true. What I would like in a dog is probably different from what you want. I like active dogs with a strong work drive and moderate to high energy levels. I prefer longer coats and dogs that can handle various climates. I want something that will think nothing of hauling a pack or cart or working all day if asked to. This can be quite a handful for many people. No matter how I feel about the breeds I like and have, I would never insist it is the best breed for everyone. Anyone who tells you this should be selling used cars on the corner. I look for someone who will tell me both the good points and bad points of a dog. Having gotten animals from reputable and responsible breeders as well as rescues, I feel that people in both areas should be more than honest when trying to match a dog to you. If they seem too anxious to make that sale or adoption, I would consider strongly going elsewhere.

4) Temperaments: Has there been any temperament testing to the puppies or dogs? If you are a quite, laid back person, it could be tough to be matched with an outgoing, dominant puppy. If you are looking for a dog to compete with in sports, that quiet, shy dog would probably not work out well. A good breeder or rescue will screen the puppies or dogs to make the best match possible.

5) Your gut: What feeling do you get about where you are looking to get your pet – be it a reputable and responsible breeder or a rescue? And when considering a rescue, many are tempted to rescue that hardship case. Use your brain. Having rescued hardship cases I can personally say it is a HUGE amount of dedication, work and money. Multiple trips to vets, medications, worries about potential behavior issues and how to deal with them, time, effort and money can easily run into the thousands before you realize it. It is noble to wish to help all the hardship cases out there. But in reality, can you devote the time and effort? Many hardship cases end right back in rescue. Use your brain as well as your heart.

I hope I have outlined, adding a dog to your life is no small thing. It is time, commitment, money and even heartache. Impulse buying a pup from a pet store (the worst place to look for a pet) or grabbing the local paper and reading the plethora of ads from people breeding for the same of it often lead to bad placings and even trouble.

It is your responsibility as a future dog owner to research your life as well as various breeds or types of dogs to help make the best match for you. It is your responsibility to find well-educated and committed people to help match you with the best canine companion. It is your responsibility to ensure the dog is well trained, socialized and the safest he can be.

Bird Safety

2009-09-15T07:42:00.001-07:00

Here are some of the things you should be aware of to keep your pet bird as safe as possible in the home.

Above all use common sense. You already are likely aware of most of the items on our pet bird safety list below, but we are all human, and sometimes just forget or have other things on our mind.

* Non Stick or Teflon Coating This coating is found on non stick cookware but also waffle irons, bread machines, irons, ironing board covers, curling irons, space heaters, blow dryers and more.

* Kerosene or Gas type heaters which give off fumes

* Open Toilets, or any other deep water source. Once birds get wet, it's ll over for them, they have no ability to swim.

* Pets, cats are notorious for stalking birds, even dogs cannot be trusted.

* Electrical wires, extension cords...any wire a pet bird can and inevitably will chew on.

* Poisoning....insecticides sprayed in the home, ammonia, bleach, oven cleaner, glues, nail polish remover, paint, perfumes, heavy metals, and many other home cleaning products.

* Poisonous plants and some foods are also a danger.

Go Here for a complete list of Poisonous Plants & Foods for Birds http://petcaretips.net/poisonous-plant-bird.html

* Toys...a bird can stangle themselves with ropes made to hang toys. Rubber toys are a no no, birds have also been known to chew plastic toys and swallow the pieces.

* Ceiling fans

* Windows and mirrors...birds can fly in to these and seriously injure themselves.

* Impure Air....wood and coal stoves are a big source of indoor pollution, smoke will kill your bird quickly. Aerosol products of any kind should not be used around your bird.

Cigarette smoke has been implicated in respiratory disease in pet birds.

Carbon monoxide is also dangerous to birds, so use a carbon monoxide detector in the home, and be careful not to run your vehicle in an attached garage.

* Air Pollution....smog, dust in the air, exhaust fumes from vehicles, all can be very harmful to your pet bird.

Birds have a very delicate respiratory system, it must be protected at all times.

Find out more about how a bird's lungs work here: http://petcaretips.net/pure-air-bird.html

* Tap water....birds are much smaller than humans and will react to the chemicals in tap water, flouride and chlorine much quicker. Both of these chemicals are toxic and can harm your bird. Even well and spring water often has high concentractions of certain minerals and bacteria.

We recommend using Only steam distilled water. It is 99.9% pure water.

* Paint...in older houses the paint on the walls may contain lead.

* Bird Cages....some older bird cages have components made our of lead

* Scented Items...candles, potpourri, soaps, strong perfumes, etc.

* Loud Noises....birds can become scared and stressed when hearing loud, unfamiliar noises....stress leads to disease, being scared can cause them to flutter and fly in to things harming themselves.

* Hot Water...check the temperature of the water before giving it to your pet bird for a bath or drinking, also don't let your birds fly around the kitchen when you are cooking, steam rising from a boiling pot of water can cause the bird to be unable to fly and possibly drop on to the hot stove or in the pot of boiling water.

Quick List of common items which will harm your pet bird:

Asbestos
Bleach / Chlorine
Carbon Monoxide
Cigarette Smoke
Diazanon
Flea Bombs and Collars
Floor Polishes
Formaldehyde
Hair Dye and Spray
House Paint
Kerosene
Matches
Moth Balls
Nail Polish & Remover
Oil Paint
Oven Cleaner
Overheated Nonstick
Cookware/Teflons
Paint Remover
Perfume
Permanent Wave Solution
Pesticides
Shoe Polish and Cleaners
Spot Removers
Spray Starch
Suntan Lotions
Surgical Acrylics
Toilet Cleaners
Wax

Bird Wing Clipping

2009-09-15T07:35:00.001-07:00

Clipping a pet birds wings is a common grooming procedure and is necessary for training as well as for your pets safety. You might feel like you are being mean to the bird, but the fact is that it does not hurt the bird and can help to keep him from flying out of an open window or door and becoming lost. Most pet birds would not be able to survive in the wild, especially if your climate is not one that is natural for the bird.

You can clip your birds wings yourself at home, but it is best if you take him into the vet or pet shop and ask if they can show you the proper way to do it before trying it yourself!

Do not try to clip your birds wing until he is very tame and used to you holding him, otherwise the procedure will be very traumatic for you both. You need to make sure that your bird trusts you enough to hold him and open up his wings. Until your relationship has reached this stage, it is best to have this done by a professional.

Once your have your birds trust and are ready to clip the wings yourself, take your bird out of the cage and hold him for a while. You may need 2 people for this as it can be kind of awkward with only 2 hands. Spread the birds wing out and hold it out with one hand, have your scissors ready with the other hand.

You want to cut only the longest feathers – the one on the very bottom layer. Cut halfway up from the bottom of the wing in a line that is parallel to the wing. Some people leave the very last feather intact so when the birds wings are folded in, you can’t really tell that they are clipped.

This should be a quick and painless procedure. After you have clipped his wing, your bird will still be able to fly, but not for any distance. When he does fly, he will most likely, have a downward motion to the flight, so if he starts off at a high spot, he’ll able to fly to a lower spot with no problem. Make sure that there are no other animals in the house that could hurt him if he lands on the table or floor as he may not be able to fly away from them to protect himself.

Why Do Cat's Eyes Glow in the Dark?

2009-09-15T07:28:00.000-07:00

If you've ever wondered why your cat's eyes seem to glow in the dark, or pondered how a hummingbird finds its way to certain nectar-filled flowers, what you are really asking is, do animals see the way we do? Though we might like to think that animals see the world with the same colors and shadows as human beings-although maybe from a different angle, perhaps high in the sky like an eagle, or under the sea like a shark-the truth is that animal vision is not like our own and differs greatly among animal species.

Glow in the Dark

Human beings are not like tigers, or housecats for that matter, whose eyes are superbly well adapted to seeing in the dark. One reason is that cats have more rods than cones in their retinas, unlike humans, making kitty's night and motion vision superior. (Rods are the receptors that the eye uses for nighttime viewing and sudden movement; cones are used during the daytime and process color information.)

Also, cats' pupils are shaped differently than those of humans (they are elliptical rather than round), which allows for a much larger pupil size. In fact, the most notable feature of nocturnal animals is the size of their eyes. The reason for this is that large eyes can collect more ambient light.

Fun fact: An owl's eyes fill over half of its skull!

As well, cats' eyes open and close much faster than do ours. And cats have a special membrane on the back of their eyes (called the tapetum lucidum, literally meaning "bright carpet") that increases the quantity of light caught by the retina. The tapetum collects and re-emits light back to the retina, giving the rods a second chance to absorb the image, thus maximizing their sensitivity to low light levels. As this light is reflected off the tapetum, the animal's eyes appear to glow.

And You Thought "Four-Eyes" Was Insulting

How about "hundred eyes"? That's the insult you'd have to hurl at a scallop. The scallop's mantle is lined with small blue eyes. Each eye has a lens and a retina which is attached to a branch of the optic nerve. Behind the retina is a tapetum, perhaps the only thing a cat and a sea creature have in common! The hundred or so eyes work together to alert the mollusk to changes in light and motion.

One Step Beyond

When it comes to light, we humans are limited. The light we see with our eyes is really a very small portion of the electromagnetic spectrum.

Bees and butterflies may be small, but they can see better than us. In fact, their range of vision extends into the ultraviolet part of the spectrum, which is invisible to us with the naked eye. The leaves of the flowers they pollinate have special ultraviolet patterns which guide the insects deep into the flower to locate the plant's nectar. So, next time you admire a pretty flower, just think about all the beauty you're not seeing!

Some snakes have an extra pair of "eyes," or sensory organs, located on their foreheads that can detect infrared radiation. They can "see" the heat of a mouse from a meter away, even in conditions where our eyes would detect only pitch black.

Even those common urban pests, pigeons, have one up on us: Pigeons can see patterns of polarized light in the daytime sky which are invisible to us, providing yet another clue to the remarkable homing abilities of these birds.

Don't Judge a Creature by Its Cones

We couldn't forget to tell you about shark vision. Sharks do not possess the same variety of photoreceptors as humans. They have few retinal cones, and as a result, for years it was thought that their vision was much less acute than ours. However, though different from our eyes, shark eyes work just as well, relying on visual pigments such as rhodopsin to supply the color vision we achieve with cones.

Of course, sharks have other advantages as well: They have a sharp sense of hearing and can hear prey many miles away. They also possess a superior sense of smell and can smell even the smallest drop of blood over long distances. Once they are close to their prey, they employ special sensory pores on their heads to detect electrical fields created by prey. Getting scared yet?

Before you go out and rent Jaws, know that you are much more likely to get hit by lightning than eaten by a shark. And here's another cool shark fact: Like cats and scallops, sharks, too, have a tapetum, which gives them about 10 times the light sensitivity we have. This works well in the dark, but the light-enhancing mechanism can be a bother during daylight. So sharks have evolved a fun solution: Many species of sharks have migratory pigment cells that can close up the tapetum under bright-light conditions-basically, a pair of built-in shades!

Animals Do Have A Heart

2009-09-15T07:22:00.000-07:00

We all humans have been evolved by apes and we all are practically related to monkeys, well that’s what scientist believe, and still we don’t like to be called one. Like humans, animals too have a heart and feelings to emote.

Have you ever seen a group of lambs playing in a field? They leap high in the air and invite each other to join by kicking out their hind legs, frolicking with each other just like children do. They are engaged in such activities just for sheer pleasure they derive from it like humans do while playing cricket or other game.

Animals do not exist just to find food, eat and procreate, to be killed or kill. They are community with families and acceptable social behavior and they too have feeling of happiness and love and dislike, stress and fear.

Author Jonathan in his book Pleasurable Kingdom says, if they look like having fun as if they are enjoying themselves, they are. He writes about a watching a group of cubs with their mother; the cubs are playing with their mother. They climb up on her back and try to balance on her spine, they chase and paw at tier tail, and when she rolls onto her back they play fight. These cubs aren't practicing for the kill; they are simply enjoying themselves and having a good time. Like human children, animals do exactly the same thing. Wrestle and roughhouse like young chimpanzees. Crows and ravens often hang upside down only to fall off and freefall for several seconds before spreading their wings and repeating the process over and over again. Both mice and baboons roar with laughter when they are tickled.

Scientists have studied chimpanzees and found their laughter like noises and human laughter identical. Touch is extremely crucial to both people and animals. Just as a hug or a caress can make you feel better, it holds same significance for animals. The animal will roll over to let you rub more, go limp in your arms and close their eyes. Birds do the same with each other. It is common knowledge that touch is needed to bring comfort and strengthen bonds between parents and child, friends, lovers, etc. The same is true for many other animals. All vertebrates have a nervous system that receives tactile simulation and warmth from the surface of the body. Dolphins are similar and have even been known to prefer a rub to a fish when given the opportunity to choose. Rhinos and bears run round and round with glee and so does horse and cows that kick their heels up and prance about.

It is not only our moral duty to protect animals for the delight of nature's creations but also let the animals live out their lives in an identical fashion to ours and let the whole world be one harmonized place.

The Secret to Successfully Training Your Dog

2009-09-15T07:14:00.000-07:00

Do you have a dog or puppy that is out of control? Do you feel like your living in an expensive dog house under your dogs rule? Well you are not alone, thousands of new puppy and dog owners experience this every year. I should know because I was once one of them. There was a time when I had just about given up on ever being able to potty train my puppy. I had tried a number of different training techniques that my friends, and family recommended, but none of their tips produced any satisfactory results. In fact looking back at the situation now, I think that following their advice only served to make things worse.

I had reached a point where I was ready to pull out my hair, and scream blood murder, because my cute, little, furry four legged friend seem to be untrainable. What was I to do? I wanted to yell at him every time I caught him reliving himself somewhere, or on something that he shouldn’t be reliving himself on, but I just couldn’t bring myself to yell at him. After all he was only doing what came natural to him, and in all reality I knew that I was really the one to blame. Its not that I didn’t try to step up to the plate, and assert myself as his leader because I did. I just went about it the wrong way. Its too bad that God doesn’t issue training manuals to new puppy owners, because most of us end up learning the hard way when it comes to training them.

Then I discovered a dog training book named SitStayFetch, that my veterinarian recommended to me. This book turned my life around! Once I read the book I immediately started to apply the house training techniques that were given in the book, and before I knew my puppy was housebroken. Not only was this a huge accomplishment for me, it also marked a major milestone in my relationship with my puppy.

Since then I have used SitStayFetch to deal with obsessive barking, separation anxiety, and I have taught him to respond to several basic commands. SitStayFetch is jam-packed with useful and practical information that is easy to understand, and apply. The information and techniques that are taught in this book apply to dogs of all breeds, and ages. I highly recommend this book to any dog owner that is serious about training their puppy or dog!

Pet Travel Scheme

2009-09-15T06:36:00.001-07:00

Quarantine means a six month kennel stay to ensure that a pet is not incubating one of a number of contagious diseases. For many years there was no alternative but quarantine for pets entering this country - the principal concern being to maintain our rabies - free state. However, the advent of improved identification techniques and better preventative medicines now means that the alternative Pet Travel Scheme is available, operated by DEFRA (Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs).

Requirements of the Scheme

Microchipping
A microchip must be implanted into a dog or cats scruff. The microchip is about the size of a grain of rice and is implanted by injection, usually, but not necessarily, by a veterinarian. Most pets react very little to this injection, but it may be a little painful. The chip carries a unique identity number which is logged along with the owners details onto a central data base. At every stage of the procedures listed the microchip will be checked by means of a scanner, which detects the individual number.
The cost of microchipping can vary between ?10 - ?30.

Vaccination
Dogs and cats should have a current vaccination against the common contagious diseases according to established UK protocols.

Rabies vaccination will need to be administered, This can be done at any time but will commonly be the first step of the Travel Scheme Program alongside microchipping. There are several rabies vaccination products licensed for use in the UK. Currently all of the vaccines are licensed to be used as a single injection. However, the chance of an inadequate response to the vaccination can be reduced by giving a second injection after a period of 2-4 weeks. Manufacturers data sheets state a booster requirement at one, two, or three year intervals. Unfortunately the requirements of European states differ, which often means that an annual booster is necessary.
Blood testing for post vaccination rabies antibodies
It is necessary to have proof of a positive response to the rabies vaccination. This is achieved by a blood test to measure anti-rabies antibodies. The test can now be taken by your veterinary surgeon from fourteen days after the rabies vaccination is administered. The sample must be sent to a government approved laboratory who will issue the submitting veterinary surgeon with a certificate stating the antibody response.
Re-entry to the UK is not permitted until six months after the date of a positive blood sample being taken, although pets can leave the UK at any time.

Passport
On receipt of a satisfactory result for the rabies response, a veterinary surgeon can supply your pets passport. This is a uniquely numbered book in which all details of microchip identification, vaccinations and blood testing are entered alongside records of administration of parasite treatments given prior to re-entry to the UK.

Parasite control
Because of the risk of contracting certain worms and ticks which can act as carriers for serious infectious diseases (Leishmaniasis, transmitted by sand flies and Ehrlichiosis, transmitted by Ticks)
it is necessary to treat pets for these parasites prior to re-entry. Several wormer products are available including Drontal Plus, and Milbemax tablets. Tick control can be achieved using Scalibor collars and Advantix, Advocate and Frontline spot on products. It is necessary for the administration of a suitable product to be witnessed by a vet 24-48 hours prior to re-entry.

Looking After your Rabbit

2009-09-15T06:30:00.001-07:00

Rabbits are increasingly popular pets within the UK. There are a large number of breeds, which range from the Dutch Dwarf weighing about 1 kg when adult, to the Flemish Giant, which can weigh more than 8 kgs when fully grown.

Housing
As the popularity of the rabbit increases, so does the number that is kept as house pets. However, the majority are still kept in a hutch.

With such a large variation in breed size there is no ideal hutch design or size but there should always be sufficient space for the rabbit to lie at full stretch and to stand up on its hindquarters.

A clean dry bed of wood shavings, hay, straw or newspaper should be provided and inspected daily to avoid the build up of any dirt that could encourage disease.
A secure outdoor run is preferable, which will allow the rabbit to exercise and graze and can also be a site for toys such as tunnels or boxes.

Rabbits kept outdoors should be in a well insulated hutch protected from wind and rain and sheltered from excess sunlight.

Diet
Rabbits are herbivores and have a complex digestive system requiring both digestible and indigestible fiber types.

Fresh grass or hay should make up about three quarters of the diet and other fresh vegetables like carrot or cabbage can be added to provide some variation. Burgess Excel or Supa Excel is top-quality commercially available rabbit diets.
Rabbits need access to clean water at all times. Feed and water bowls should be cleaned daily.

Diarrhea
Rabbits are prone to digestive disturbances resulting in diarrhea. This may be serious, and even life threatening. Probiotics such as protexin are particularly helpful in maintaining or restoring the normal gut micro-organisms required to digest food properly.

Diarrhea often results in matting of the fur around a rabbits anus which can in itself be distressing to your pet, but is also a common cause of 'fly-strike' during the summer months. It is recommended that a preventative application of 'Rearguard' be used early in the summer to prevent maggots. 'Advantage' is a spot-on product normally used for flea control which can also help control flies and maggots. These products are available from your veterinary surgeon.

Reproduction
Rabbits become sexually mature at between 16-24 weeks of age.

Baby rabbits or 'kits' are born after 30-33 days of pregnancy and litter size ranges from
4-12.

To avoid mis-mothering or abandonment, the nest area should not be disturbed and the young kits should not be handled until they are weaned at around 7-8 weeks of age.

Neutering
Rabbits are prolific breeders and care should always be taken to avoid unwanted litters. Neutering not only prevents unwanted matings, but also can make both does and bucks less territorial and aggressive. In addition, does have a very high risk of developing uterine tumours if not neutered.

Bucks are castrated from about 5 months of age. A general anaesthetic is given and both testicles are removed from an incision made on the scrotum.

Does are spayed from about 6 months of age. A general anaesthetic is given and an incision made in the middle of the does tummy. Both ovaries and the uterus are removed during the operation.

Vaccination
Like dogs and cats, rabbits are susceptible to many diseases and some of these can be prevented by routine vaccinations.

Myxomatosis is a viral disease seen commonly in wild rabbits in the UK and unfortunately it can affect pet rabbits too. The disease is spread from infected to non-infected rabbits via flea bites. The virus causes swellings around the eyes, ears and genitals and feeding soon becomes difficult. In the vast majority of cases treatment is futile.
Viral haemorrhagic disease (V.H.D.) is another widespread viral disease that is present in the UK. The disease is spread via direct contact with infected rabbits or contaminated feeding or drinking bowls. Affected rabbits rapidly become ill and often sudden death is the first sign that is seen.

Controling Skin Disease in your Pet

2009-09-15T06:24:00.001-07:00

What Are The Signs Of Skin Disease?

These includes:
• Itching, or pruritis. This is one of the most frequently seen signs and can range from intermittent minor irritation to a relentless, intense drive to scratch leading to
self-inflicted injuries.
• Hair loss, or alopecia. This is another very common sign of skin disease. It can be localised to a specific area, such as in ringworm or wet eczema, or could be generalised, affecting most of the body. The distribution of hair loss can also help the vet in reaching a diagnosis.
• Skin inflammation, or erythema, is often seen and can vary from a mild reddening of an area to a case where the whole animal feels hot to the touch.
• Scaly skin or a scurfy coat - can be localised or general.
• Excessively oily or excessively dry coat conditions.
• Skin malodour can often be one of the most common presenting symptoms, since this also affects the pet owner as well.

The presence or absence of these signs and their location can be very useful to the vet attempting to diagnose which skin disease is present.

What Can We Use To Treat Skin Disease?

Whilst many skin conditions are readily curable if the appropriate medications are used, others require long term or possibly life-long medications and management to minimise the affect on the sufferer.
Antibiotics and Antifungals
The skin is naturally covered by a massive population of bacteria and yeasts and should they be able to break through the superficial layer of skin an infection will result.
Antibiotics and antifungal agents are available through your veterinary surgeon.

Antihistamines and Glucocorticoids (steroids)
Allergies affecting the skin are very common and both these classes of drugs are often used under close veterinary supervision to help regulate the animals' allergic response.

Ectoparasiticides
Ectoparasiticides are medications that control parasites living on the animals' skin. Flea infestations are responsible for more cases of skin disease than anything else in the UK and so drugs that SUCCESSFULLY control or kill fleas are of vital importance. As well as using flea products on the pet it is also important to use products to treat the pets environment ie. the home, since this is where a flea spends 95% of its life.

Mange is a skin disease that is caused by mites that burrow under the skin. There are two types of mange that are common in the UK and it is important to know which is present as the treatments can differ. Diagnosis involves taking skin scrapes and examining these under a microscope to identify which mange mite is present. Your vet will be able to do this.

Lice are another common cause of skin disease. Lice are just visible to the naked eye and this gives rise to the term `walking dandruff` describing the slow, barely perceptible drift of these animals as they crawl through the pets' coat.
Ticks are also commonly seen in the UK and products are available for their control.

In dogs some families of roundworms can also cause skin disease, as the infective larvae are able to burrow directly into areas of exposed skin. Regular worming with products such as DRONTAL PLUS/XL, PANACUR PASTE or PANACUR GRANULES will prevent this.

Shampoos
A suitable shampoo would be valuable in most cases of skin disease though the practicalities of their use in cats are limiting.

There is a range of products on the market which include:
• Hypoallergenic shampoos (EPISOOTHE/DERMOCANIS). These will soothe inflamed areas of the skin and also moisturise the coat.
• Anti-scaling agents (SEBOCALM /SEBOMILD) which work by lifting the debris and damaged cells from the skin's surface.
• Tar shampoos (TARLITE) ,used in greasy skin conditions.

Coat Conditioning Sprays
These products are applied directly to the animals` coat and act as a moisturiser. (HUMILAC).
Diet

Food allergy or dietary intolerance is quite frequently seen affecting and can affect both dogs and cats. Many of today's commercial pet diets combine several sources of proteins and some of these can spark off an allergy which manifests itself as skin disease. Gluten intolerance can also be seen. Diagnosis depends on feeding the patient a `hypoallergenic' diet that contains a single or novel protein source for 4-6 weeks, in which time signs abate. By slowly adding in more protein sources into the diet and watching the animal for signs of relapse it is then possible to find out which protein is the cause of the problem.

Diets such as HILLS D/D, HILLS C/D and ROYAL CANIN SENSITIVITY CONTROL are ready made diets that can be used for some of these cases.

Essential Fatty Acid (EFA) Supplements
The essential fatty acids are a group of chemicals that are required to maintain a normal health status. There are several ways in which they help the skin's structure and function. Signs of deficiency of EFAs in the diet include a dull coat, scaling and also itching and inflammation.
EFA supplements such as VIACUTAN or EFAVET REGULAR are often used alongside other products to successfully control the signs of skin disease. They are often required over the longer term.

Cat wormers and other cat medications

2009-09-15T06:01:00.001-07:00

Dogs are the common house pets by many but as years pass, more and more people are recognizing that cats can be good house pets too. Decades may have proven these but it is only recently when medicative treatments have been invented to save the health of cats and other felines. One is the cat wormer which has saved hundred lives of the cats.

Years ago, cat wormers are only available in syrup but as the demand for an easier administration procedure of this treatment grew through the years, medicine manufacturers have develop suspension, tablets, spot on, and paste. Let us tackle these one by one and see which can be the most appropriate for your cat.

Liquid cat wormer. Liquid cat wormer is the most preferred type of medicine in worming cats. This is for the reason that some can be readily mixed to the food of the infected cat without any flavors added. Some of the varieties also have palatable taste to induce the cat to take the medicated food.

Suspension and tablets cat wormer. Suspension and tablet cat wormers are available in chewable tablets which can be digested easy by the cat. This offers convenience as the medication does not need to be measured up because it is in the tablet form. Dosage can be on the quantity of tablets that should be taken for the time intervals.

Cat wormer paste. This type of wormer is effective against all types of worms. This is easy to use as you only need to place the nozzle inside of the cat’s mouth and squirt it inside.

In deciding on which form of cat wormer should you take, it is wise to take the advise of a veterinarian. It is also a pre-requisite that you bring your cat with you, so as the vet may see the actual health condition of your pet. Sometimes, it is not only one parasite that infects the animal. Most often some parasites go along together. In such case, medication that addresses both infections must be administered so as to completely treat your pet.

One of the factors that can be linked to these infections is the unsanitary and unhygienic environment conditions. It is a must that you also check the cleanliness of the area to avoid possible diseases and infections not only to your pets but also to your health as well.

Cat wormers vary depending on the severity of the infection and the disease. In choosing the form of cat wormer to be administered, consult your vet and follow thoroughly the instructions indicated for easier and effective treatment of your cat. It is not enough that you ask suggestions to your friend or consult the internet. It is best to have an authority to treat and restore the health of your cat.

Remote Training Collar

2009-09-15T05:54:00.000-07:00

Introducing Your Dog To A Remote Training Collar

Introducing your k9 to a training collar necessitates patience, time and perseverance in order to be successful. You should also acquaint yourself with relevant information on how this electronic training device works. Improper use can cause fatal and devastating effects. Take note that different remote training collar designs have different levels of stimulation such as low, medium and high, and each of them is intended for specific dog breeds, ages and sizes.

Among the primary benefits of using a remote trainer in dog training is that you’ll be able to send immediate signals to your dog even from a distance to tackle his unwanted behaviors such as nuisance barking, jumping, chewing and many others. Electronic bark control collar, in particular, can be programmed to release harmless vibration to deter a dog from excessive barking.

Below are some simple tips to help you in introducing the remote training collar to your dog:

Before anything else, make sure that the collar perfect fits around your dog’s neck. Don’t choose a product that’s too loose or tight. It should not rub against your dog’s skin for it can cause irritation and discomfort.

The method of putting an electronic training collar is almost the same with that of regular nylon collar. The only difference is that it has a receiver which needs to be placed securely under the neck of your dog. This is the electronic component responsible for delivering a sensation to your dog. If you fail to place it against your dog’s skin, the training will never be successful.

When you introduce your dog to a training collar for the very first time, introduce him with the lowest level of stimulation, regardless of his size or breed. You will know if that’s the lowest intensity if your dog responds to it without even barking. If your dog barks loudly, that indicates that you’re using a high level of electronic stimulation.

Don’t rush things in order to prevent trauma or undesirable shock. It takes time before your dog eventually gets used to wearing the remote trainer collar. To determine your dog’s level, start with the lowest one. Press the continuous button while closely observing your pet. By this time, you should be looking into the involuntary twitch in his neck. If you see this reaction, this means that your dog feels the stimulation you’re giving him.

After establishing your dog’s training level, it’s time to reinforce commands and training methods. Just because you’re using an electronic collar doesn’t necessarily mean that you can automatically train your dog. Bear in mind that the primary function of such a training device is to allow your canine to associate the stimulation when he fails to obey your command. Never transmit an undesirable sensation to your dog unless he behaves badly or fails to follow his master.

How to care for your pet bird

2009-09-15T05:45:00.001-07:00

Birds are generally cheerful animals. Although their faces may not be the most animated of all faces, they seem to have the ability to express themselves in a way that can be understood by most. They sing beautiful love songs when they’re glad and you can hear them sadly chirping away when they’re lonely. Physically healthy birds would be seen to have clean shiny feathers, bright sharp eyes, good appetite and full of energy. They are regularly active and eat more often than les healthy one.
Whether you’ve chosen to adopt a big bird like the parrot or a small one like the lovebird, an owner should be able to provide a pet bird with the basic care needed to keep his feathered friend healthy and happy. Here are some tips to ensure your bird’s long life.
A visit to a good veterinary doctor would be worthwhile stop before going home from the pet shop where you bought your bird. A good pet shop would allow you to return and replace a sick bird because this will also help them with their current inventory of healthy birds in their shop.
The vet who will conduct his first examination more likely assess your pet based on his physical features such as its feathers to see if it’s clean, smooth and bright. He will also see its eyes if they are clear, bright and alert. The bird’s beak will also be considered if it is well-shaped and free from scales and abnormal growth. Its feet should also be free from scales and abnormal growth. Your bird’s mental condition will also be examined by watching its alertness and responsiveness to stimuli. Lastly, your pet’s eating and drinking habits will also be studied. Your vet will surely give you advice on how to feed, maintain, train, groom and perform first aid on you bird.
After your first check-up, your bird’s home will be a very important necessity. An ideal bird cage should be clean, spacious, safe and comfortable. A big cage is definitely better but be sure it the bar gaps are not wide enough to fit your pet’s body or his even head as this can put your pet in serious danger.
Cleaning the cage along with the water and food bowls must be done daily to avoid diseases and illnesses. You can purchase natural perches made from wood branches like madrona, eucalyptus and
Manzanita to accessorize your cage. Lastly, the bottom of the cage must be lined with newspaper or paper towels to catch bird droppings and this must also be replaced on a daily basis.
The bird’s food plan is a very simple diet. Half percent needs to be seed and the other half would be fruits and vegetables. But letting your pet try new varieties of food other than seeds may be a challenging task. For this, you will need patience as you need to do the introduction as gradual as possible. Cutting the fruit or vegetable in small bit-sized pieces may also help in getting him acquainted with the new menu.
Other bird care procedures such as nail, wing and beak trimming may be done occasionally but may require help from professional pet groomers.

How to care for your pet cat

2009-09-15T05:13:00.001-07:00

Although cats are generally intelligent and independent animals, they also require a significant amount of care and attention when it comes to their daily needs. Pet cats are generally more meticulously clean than other types of pets as they have the ability to cleanse themselves on a regular basis. But more than keeping them clean, there are other caring tasks that would require cat owner’s time and attention.
Here are a few important tips on how to make sure that your cat is well taken-cared of.
Cat food
An owner needs to make sure kitty gets enough nutrients to supply her with the energy she needs to be an active pet. As she grows, her nutritional needs continue to change with her. Also like humans, cats need a well-balanced diet which includes proteins, carbohydrates, fats as well as the essential vitamins and minerals. Some cat food claim to provide all these required nutrients but an owner may also supplement it with an occasional addition of table food. But of course it is still good to seek your vet’s advice when it comes to feeding as one cat’s need may differ from another’s.
Sleeping
Having a good place for your beloved pet to sleep is also important for her well-being. Although cats are not known to be too picky when it comes to their slumber abode, fixing up a special place for her can relax her even more. If you want her to stay inside a house, a padded box or basket can serve as her bed. Give her a corner of the house so she’ll know she indeed has her own place. An outdoor cat would need a shelter of her own that can protect her from the rain. It should be big enough for her, her toys, her litter-box and her feeding items.
Cat grooming and hygiene
Grooming is a requisite for indoor cats as a furry pet can easily become a haven for fleas and ticks that can be dangerous for you and your kids. Your cat should be brushed and bathe regularly to ensure that she is visually and absolutely clean.
Generally, cat grooming is one thing that both owner and pet can enjoy together. Choose a good time of the day for grooming when cat is in slumber mode, not yet asleep but not in the mood for play. Place a newspaper or any scratch paper on your lap and buddle your pet towards you. Once your cat is settled, start brushing her from head to tail. Inspect ears, between toes and other crevices where ticks and fleas may hide. Remove ticks and pests with a pair of tweezers. Use ointments and antibiotics prescribed by your vet for any skin inflammation you may find. You may also cut your pet’s nails with a pair of pet nail clippers. Be careful not to injure your cat by cutting too close to her nail veins which may cause her to bleed. Throw away the newspaper padding after your grooming session.
After grooming and nail cutting, you can proceed with bathing which can be a very challenging task as cats generally do not like water. You may start bathing away from the tub using a warm wash rag with shampoo. Beginning with the head, eyes and ears, move to the body using anti-flee shampoo. Use swabs to reach the insides of the ears. Once shampooed, you may place your pet to the wash basin hind first. Massage the shampoo into your cat and rise thoroughly using hose. Dry cat on the floor on a towel and use a blower on medium heat to dry her fur.
Cat safety and health
Keep a pet-safe house by covering exposed plugs and arranging electrical cords properly. Make sure that your cat also gets her proper dose of heartworm pill every year. Cats teeth also needs brushing at least twice a week. And lastly, make sure that you get your cat checked up by her veterinary at least once a year.

Insurance for Your PetsWhy Not

2009-09-15T04:57:00.000-07:00

There was a time when pets were just, well, pets. They used to be merely animals or friends you talk to and play and cuddle with anytime of the day. Nowadays, we have a deeper understanding for the needs of our animal friends. We pay closer attention to their needs as if they really are part of our family.

And, why not? Pets offer many things human beings are not always capable of giving or willing to give: unconditional friendship, love, loyalty, and companionship. If you love your pets dearly, then there is no reason for you to have second thoughts against buying it insurance. Here are some reasons why:

1. Insurance will save you much more in the event that your pet suddenly needs emergency medical treatment or surgery. Dogs suffer illnesses, too, and most of them come unexpected, such as blindness and even cancer. You’ll be surprised how veterinary bills for special surgeries could reach up to hundreds or thousands of dollars. Insurance covers major treatments for pets and prepares you for any untoward incident in the future.

2. Insurance could also cover routine consultations and check-ups. Usually, pet insurance packages involve participating veterinarians, who sometimes process insurance claims on your behalf. There are plans that entitle pet owners to consultation discounts and easy payment schemes.

3. You could always find an insurance plan that will fit your budget and the needs of your pets based on their age and breed. There are plans that cover accidents and these are highly recommended.

Note the following example to get a clearer picture about the benefits of getting insurance for your pets:

Say, for example, a dog sustains a front-leg injury. The owner would usually have to pay fees for an emergency consultation, a surgery, and a boarding fee while the dog is being confined. The total bill adds up to a total of USD 3,000. Fortunately, the insurance will cover the boarding fee, as well as the total of the medical bill, except for a USD 100 deductible set by the participating veterinarian. In other cases, the owner would only have to pay part of the bill.

Choosing an Insurance Plan

We have established that insurance makes a good investment. Remember to be careful in selecting the best policy for you and your pet. Take time to discuss your options with insurance agents. Do not be afraid to ask your fellow owners about the issue. You could also access more information on insurance services online.

It is advisable that you study insurance plans well before making a choice which one suits your pet’s needs and your monthly allocation. Once you have chosen a policy, pay your premiums diligently and monitor your payments. Always review the terms of your pet insurance plan to be ready in case of an emergency.

Indeed, our beloved pets deserve good food, shelter, and environment. Stop yourself from worrying about possible accidents and sickness by subscribing to a comprehensive insurance program for your pet.

Buy the Right Dog Bed

2009-09-15T04:02:00.000-07:00

For the most enthusiastic dog owners, providing comfortable and convenient beds for their canine friends has become essential in pet care. For some people, dog beds might seem a foreign idea but designer dog beds have become increasingly popular among pet owners. As much as they love to bark and play, dogs do not mind lounging and a good night’s rest either.

Beddings especially designed for your pets give them special and exclusive territory. This way, they wouldn’t have to sleep or lounge on your bed and couch. You are spared the hassle of washing upholstery and bed sheets more often than necessary. Dog beds are mostly covered with washable exteriors pretty much like your pillows.

Having their own dog beds will also prevent your pet from nibbling or chewing through your pillows and sheets. Dogs are territorial animals and having their own domain will make them feel special and somehow, royal.

Dog beds actually offer a relaxing experience for your pets. Some of the best ones could even ease back and leg pains your dog might be feeling. More and more veterinarians, breeders, trainers, and groomers are recommending dog beds to pet owners.

Dog Bed Designs

Dog beds are especially designed to withstand the strength and weight of your canine pets. Some of them are lined with polypropylene materials with extra durable exteriors. Of course, they also come in different shapes and sizes to suit the type of dog you have, as well as their habits.

Donut-style dog beds are circular beds ideal for dogs with large builds such as Rottweilers, German Shepherds, and Great Danes.

There are also oblong beds that are perfect for pets that love to stretch out their bodies.

Meanwhile, carry mats for travel crates and cages are also readily available in the market.

It is easy to find the right dog bed for your pet if you invest time and money. Do not hesitate to choose beds with the highest quality. Some brands claim that the fiber used for their products are highly engineered so that the beddings take after the exact shape of dog’s body. Sometimes, orthopedic foams and organic materials are stuffed inside the dog beds, providing the luxury your pets deserve.

Getting a dog bed could also come in handy if you wish to tag your dog along on camping trips, picnics, and other outdoor activities. These beddings usually come with detachable and reversible pillows that can be placed on the back seat to ensure comfort.

One of the most recommended makers of dog beds is Mammoths. Their beds are mostly created with the largest dogs, including Swiss Mountain Dogs, Collies, Mastiffs, Irish Setters, German Shepherds, and Great Danes in mind.

Mammoth and other dog-bed makers also took style into consideration. Buyers are given the liberty to choose from a wide variety of materials so that the design will compliment their home decor. Dog beds could be made from suede, fleece, canvas, vinyl, and so on and they also come in different colors and patterns. You could even personalize them by having your dog’s name embroidered on the surface.

Dog beds could be a little expensive but investing in them has many advantages. Your canine pet is definitely worth his or her own luxurious dog bed.

Choosing The Right House For Your Dog

2009-09-14T08:26:00.001-07:00

Every dog needs his own little space where he can play and sleep. It can be in the form of dog houses, dog kennels, dog pens or small animal cages . Nowadays, you can find various options for a dog's shelter depending on your preference or budget. But before purchasing any product, there are several factors you need to take into consideration to ensure that what you're buying really suits your k9.

The first consideration is the size of your dog and how much space he needs. If you have a small backyard, it is important that you plan what is best for the area and how you can utilize the space. Putting up a small dog house inside this structure would be a practical move.

There are tons of sizes, designs and shapes of dog houses that you can buy today. Commonly, a canine house is made of either plastic or wood materials. Some prefer the plastic type because it lasts longer and is easier to clean. Others choose wood dog house because it can be customized and painted in various colors. But whichever type you choose, remember that there must be an adequate room for water and food inside the doghouse so that your canine will not be walking in and out of it.

There should also be sufficient space for him where he can sleep, walk around and exercise. A big dog house is always better. Ideally, it should be huge enough so that your k9 can lie down comfortably.

You also need to be particular about the insulation. If you reside in an area with severe temperatures, better opt for an insulated dog house to protect him against intense heat or cold. Having a house with removable roof is also beneficial to give you better access to the dog house, allowing you to clean it easily and quickly. It is also recommended that you raise the floor in setting up the shelter in order to prevent water from entering it during the rainy season and isolate it from the cold ground during winter.

Lastly, you must ensure that the dog house is made from sturdy materials that can withstand even the toughest weather conditions. It should be designed in such a way that your canine will be protected from the heat, cold, rain and other harsh elements. If your pet enjoys spending time in the outdoor, then a doghouse is just the perfect option!

Dog Leash Training

2009-09-14T06:41:00.001-07:00

Dogs walk faster than humans can. Naturally, if you put them on a leash, they'll start pulling to get to whatever they're looking at faster. A dog, having what is called an opposition reflex, would lean on a pressure it feels on its neck and chest. Understanding this makes it clear that if you want to have a leisurely walk with your dog on a leash, you must begin dog leash training while your pet is still a few weeks-old puppy.

Begin by allowing your dog time to get used to the collar around his neck. When you put it on for the first time, your puppy will scratch, roll around or try to get it off. Make sure you fasten the collar securely and don't remove it when the dog is trying to. When he finally calmed down and shows signs of being comfortable with it, you can remove the collar for a short while. This teaches the dog two important things: first, that the collar won't come off when he wants it so he'd best get used to it and second, the collar is not a permanent attachment. Check the collar regularly to make sure it isn't too tight. Your dog grows in size and you need to adjust the collar regularly.

When the dog is ready, attach a leash to the collar and allow the dog time to adjust to the leash. Allot a few minutes every day to for leash training with your puppy and have some treats handy. Your goal is to be able to walk around with your dog on a leash without him pulling at the other end. This means you should be able to stand still with your dog and walk around at your pace, not his.

To get started, fasten the collar securely around your pup's neck and attach the leash. Hold the other end securely. Try and have the dog stand still beside you. When he starts to wander too far and pulls on the leash, call the dog back to your side and reward him with a treat when he does. When he finally is able to stand still beside you for the time you wish to, you can begin walking him around. When he wanders too far to the point of pulling on the leash, call him back to your side. Pull on the leash if needed. When the dog returns to a comfortable distance - walks beside you without pulling on the leash, reward him with a treat.

Do these training exercises with a reward system for several days or weeks or until your dog learns to consistently respect the leash. When your dog is finally able to stand still beside you or walk around your house or backyard with a loose leash, reward your dog with a lot of praise, hugs or pats and some treats. He is ready to be taken out for a walk.

Remember that to condition your dog to respect the leash, focus on allowing your dog to progress forward when the leash is loose. If you allow your pet to proceed forward when the leash is tight, you're teaching him to pull.

Fun Games For Your Cat

2009-09-13T03:09:00.000-07:00

Playing with your cat is a great way to bond as well as get in some good mental and physical exercise. Here is a list of fun games to play with your cat.

1. Staircase Sprint – Stand at the bottom of a staircase and have your feline friend sit at the top. Throw a ping pong ball so it hits the back wall of a step one of or two below where your cat is sitting. The ball will bounce back and coming rolling back towards you. Your cat will follow it down the stairs trying to catch it. But the ball should reach you again before the cat can get to it, so you can keep throwing it back up the stairs until your cat is tired.

2. Bathtub Bustle – Place your cat in a clean bathtub and bounce a ping pong ball of the side of the tub to get things going. Your cat while have loads of fun chasing down the always moving ping pong ball.

3. Bubbles – Buy a bottle of bubble solution and blow them around indoors or outside. Attempting to catch and pop all the bubbles will keep your cat occupied.

4. Toys – Some recommended toys are playthings like balls with bells on them, wand toys and catnip mice. Some useful things you might find around the house are straws, boxes, crinkled up paper or bottle caps.

6 Important Cat Facts

2009-09-13T03:05:00.000-07:00

Some of the items a cat owners needs are readily apparent: cat food, a litter box, and a cat, for starters! Others only become apparent as necessities after trial and error. As a new cat owner, learn from the experience of others. Read on to discover details about the most common cat items, and learn about others that will make your life as a new cat owner a lot easier. Having all the right items in place before bringing your cat home will help her feel welcomed and comfortable from the minute she sets paw in the door.

1. Food-Related Items

First item of business is a place to put the food. Metal or ceramic containers for food and water are best. Some cats may develop a chin rash related to a plastic food dish. A good option for busy cat owners would be automatic food and water servers, which keep your cat's meals fresh even when you're out and about.

For food itself, don't buy too much before you bring your cat home. Keep your cat's nutritional needs in mind, as kittens need extra nutrients for growth and overweight cats may need a restricted diet. With this in mind, purchase several brands and flavors of food in both canned and dry varieties for your cat to try. Once you figure out your cat's favorites, keep those in stock
2. Litter Box

The use of a litter box is one of the many benefits of being a cat owner. Most popular nowadays is the clumping clay type of litter, because it clumps around urine, making the litter box easy to clean. However, clumping clay can be harmful if ingested, so it should not be used with kittens and may not always be appropriate for adult cats. Plant-based litter is an alternative option.

As for the litter box itself, many shapes and sizes are available. Start simply with a plastic box that fits your cat—adult cats need a sizeable one with high sides, since they tend to throw the litter around a bit. Kittens, on the other hand, need one that is low enough that they can climb in.

3. Grooming Tools

Properly groomed cats are healthier and happier. Grooming can also be an opportunity for you and your cat to bond. Grooming a cat's hair helps prevent hairballs and keeps your house cleaner, which any allergic visitors would greatly appreciate. To groom hair, purchase a rubber-backed pin brush and a fine-tooth comb.

Clipping your cat's nails also helps prevent overgrown toenails and excessive scratching. For your cat's comfort and ease of use, purchase a nail clipper specifically designed for cats.

4. Cat Toys

Cats and cat owners love to play. One of the simplest and favorite cat toys is the “dangling lure” variety. Before purchasing, be certain that all parts are sturdily connected and won't be a choking hazard for your cat.

Other than the dangling lure, more expensive and creative toys are constantly being invented. Your only limits are space and budget!

5. Cat Carrier

Although a cardboard carrier from the pet store or shelter offers a short-term solution, you will be carrying your cat for many years to come. Even if your cat will live indoors, you will still need to take him out occasionally for vet appointments or possibly for boarding if you take a long trip. For long-term use, purchase a sturdy plastic carrier with a door that latches. Put a favorite blanket in the carrier and your cat will feel comfortable and secure in his travels.

6. Scratching Post

This is an item that new cat owners may not think of, but veteran cat lovers swear by! Cats will scratch—it's in their nature. Providing your cat with a scratching post can help save your furniture and drapes and keep your cat happy. Like toys, scratching posts are available in a wide variety of shapes, styles, and prices. Many purchased at a store also have catnip scent to attract your cat's attention. Choose a scratching post based on your home, your cat's temperament, and your aesthetic preferences.

Now that you have armed yourself with the six basic cat items, you can bring your cat into a comfortable and welcoming home.

Adopting a Cat from an Animal Shelter

2009-09-13T03:04:00.001-07:00

When choosing a cat to adopt from an animal shelter, there are several things that must be considered. Perhaps the most important thing to remember is that adopting a cat means the furry friend will most likely be around for a long while. In fact, a cat can easily live up to 20 years. Therefore, owning a cat isn't just a small commitment in time. Once the decision is made to adopt a cat, there are four main things to look for to ensure the pet will be healthy and a good match for the family and its lifestyle.

Activity

When visiting a cat shelter to choose a new feline friend, the first thing to do is to simply observe all of the cats and kittens. While observing them, just to get an idea of how active they are and what type of attitude they have. If the cat is hunched in a corner or appears lethargic, it might not be too healthy. The last thing a new pet owner needs is to adopt a sick cat that will rack up the vet's bills. Similarly, a pet owner looking to add a new cat along with the pets he or she already has doesn't want to bring home a sick cat that will spread illness to the other cats.
Observing the cat while it is in its cage is helpful in determining the attitude of the cat. Some pet owners are looking for playful cats that will scamper about the house and chase and play with toys. On the other hand, some pet owners would like a cat that is a little more docile and that will spend hours cuddled up in the owner's lap. Watching the cats in their cages will help determine which type of personality they have. Of course, a cat that is sleeping doesn't provide much information about its personality, because all cats sleep the majority of their day away. For sleeping cats, it will be necessary to rouse them to get an idea of their unique personalities.

Look At The Cat

After the selection of potential adoptees has been narrowed down, the remaining cats should be looked at more closely. To do this, the attendant should be asked to release the cats fro the cage, one at a time.

A good place to begin the physical examination is to look at the cat's eyes. It is a good sign if the eyes are bright and clear. There also should be no discharge or running eyes, as both are signs of illness.

After inspecting the eyes, the nose should be looked at next. It should be clean and slightly moist. Again, there should be no discharge. The ears should also be clean. Ears that are extremely dirty are potentially contaminated with ear mites. Ear mites can be very difficult to get rid of and can easily spread to other cats at home.

Finally, the cat's fur should be clean, shiny, and free of fleas. Fleas can be particularly bothersome to both the cat and to the owner. Furthermore, getting rid of fleas once they infest the home can be very difficult.

Listen To The Cat

Of those cats remaining, the next step is to listen to the cat. First, listen for signs of illness. A cat that coughs, sneezes, or sounds congested can be quite ill and should be avoided. Also, listen for sounds of contentment. A cat who is purring is likely happy and healthy. If the cat is meowing, the sound of the meow can often indicate trouble or contentment. A long, pleading meow could indicate the cat is ill. On the other hand, a playful meow could mean the cat is already developing a bond with its potential new owner!

After handling each cat, it is important to wash up with an antiseptic. That way, any illnesses one cat might have will not be spread to the other cats.

Play With The Cat

After finding a couple healthy cats that appear to have the appropriate personality, it's time to play! Get the last couple of cats out of their cages and set them on the floor. See how they interact with one another to get a feeling for the cat's disposition. Seeing how the cat gets along with other cats is especially important for pet owners who already have a pet cat at home.

Also, take out a string or car keys and dangle them in front of the cat. The one that seems most alert and active is likely the better choice. Of course, both cats can be adopted if the decision is just too hard to make!

Behavioral Problems In Cats

2009-09-13T03:03:00.001-07:00

Cats are ill tempered and mean at their worst, but even the most annoying problems have a remedy somewhere. Below are six of the most common behavioral problems in cats and some solutions for them.

1. Scratching Your Furnishings and Carpet. Cats actually need to sharpen their claws, just like rodents need to gnaw. Their claws never stop growing, and what they're actually doing when they sharpen their claws is removing the outer layer of the claw. Some people will simply declaw a cat that is having this problem. I do not advocate this. Even the most indoor of cats may wind up outside by accident or design one day, and if you remove your cat's claws, you're taking away his or her primary form of defense.

Before declawing, try getting a scratching post. If your cat loves someone more than anyone else in the family, hang a dirty sock belonging to that person on the scratching post to make it smell familiar (you can take it off after about a day). You can also sprinkle catnip over it or – this is weird but it works – powdered chicken bouillon. The idea is to get the cat to feel friendly enough to the scratching post to attack it.

Meanwhile, make your cat's favorite scratching areas less attractive. Sprinkle fresh lemon juice over them, wrap them or cover them with aluminum foil (fingernails on the chalkboard, anyone?), and clean them well to eradicate any cat odor. If you can, close doors to make those places inaccessible to the cat.

2. Eliminating Outside The Litter Box. The first thing to ask is, is it your fault or the cat's fault? Many cats won't use a litter box that is too dirty. They just don't like it. If you think this may be the problem, change out the litter about twice as often as you currently do. You can also be prompt about cleaning any places the cat goes, spraying these areas down well with Lysol or a similar disinfectant with a nice strong smell. You can also try putting the litter box in a more attractive place to the cat; the bathroom, for instance. If it's not in too obnoxious a place, you can put the litter box on top of the place your cat has chosen to go, too, just to make the point. As last resorts, put down bleach, safely, in those spots, and cover the area with aluminum foil.

3. Scratching people. Cats generally do this because they're afraid; again, is it the fault of the cat or of the people around him? If you have a cat that is generically afraid of children, though, you should do something about it; try acclimatization, or exposing the cat to young children until he's calmer about it. Don't let the child loose around the cat. Either have the child sit down in your lap or next to you, feeding Kitty treats.

Not all cats are afraid; some are just plain mean to certain people. The only thing you can do about this is remove the cat from the situation; when the cat starts clawing or growling, pick her up and take her to the bathroom until your guest is gone; and it's usually a guest that this happens to, often one who owns pets of his or her own.. If it's a family member, try cat repellant or lemon juice to keep the cat away, then acclimatization to get them used to the other person. If all this fails, you may be forced to have the cat declawed.

4. Caterwauling (whining). Siamese cats do this by nature, and you may not be able to get them to stop. But other cats do it because they are hungry, tired, or sick, or to let you know she has done something good. There aren't many things you can do about this, unfortunately. If you think it's a hunger thing, feed her more promptly, and refuse to feed her when she caterwauls; she won't understand what you're doing, but she'll almost certainly quit after she figures out it does her no good. If she caterwauls because she is in heat, you should get her fixed. For other caterwauling problems, try to ignore her, and keep her as far away from yourself as possible.

5. Spraying. Male cats do this to mark territory, and they usually do it when they feel threatened: when dogs or small children threaten, or when other male cats are around. There is little you can do about this beyond having your cat neutered. Don't punish for it; the cat will not understand at all.

6. Running Outside. Cats get very curious about the outside. The first thing you should do is not open the door when the cat can run out. But you can also try to get the cat accustomed to the outdoors by getting a cat leash and walking her on it, or by carrying her in your arms when you go outside. Once she knows what's out there, she's less likely to want to get to it, particularly if you expose her to snow and wet conditions.

Cat Allergies

2009-09-13T03:01:00.000-07:00

There are many people who are allergic to cat dander. But, did you know that cats also have allergies, too? There are numerous foods, household products and other items that cats can have allergic reactions to. It is estimated that at least fifteen percent of all cats in the United States suffer from some form of allergy. Cats who suffer from allergies can be treated in much the same way as humans.

Just as humans suffer different types of allergies, cats can also suffer from several types. For example, cats can have inhalant allergies, which are allergic reactions caused by airborne articles, such as pollen or household sprays or chemicals. These types of allergies can irritate the nasal passages, eyes and lungs. Cats can also have contact allergies that can be caused by prolonged contact with a certain substance. Food allergies and fleas are another cause for allergic reactions in cats.

Inhalant Allergies: Pollen and other airborne articles can cause allergic reactions in cats. Just as they do in people, airborne allergies can cause cats to sneeze and have runny, watery eyes. Cats can experience irritated nasal passages and upper respiratory problems. Common airborne articles that can cause reaction in some cats are household aerosols and sprays. Many people do not realize it, but spraying these types of products around some cats can cause breathing difficulties and eye infections. If your cat has these types of allergies, your vet will recommend that you keep the kitty indoors, away from pollen, and can prescribe medications to help with the reactions. For cats that have problems with the eyes, a prescription eye drop can be given.

Contact Allergies: Cats can have allergic reactions to items that they come in contact with. The most common form of contact allergies in cats is due to exposure to certain plants. These often include plants that have oily leaves such as rubber plants. Other forms for contact allergies in cats can include carpet cleaners or fresheners, wool, dust in the home, newsprint, house cleaners, carpet and even cat litter. Usually a cat that suffers from contact allergies will experience itching and discomfort on the skin. There could be skin eruptions, such as hives or bumps on the skin or dermatitis. In some cases, the fur could fall out causing dry, itchy patches on the cat's skin. Usually, contact allergies that cause problem are more noticeable on the chin, ears, inner thighs, abdomen, and underneath the tail. If you suspect that your cat is experiencing contact allergies, the first step is to take your cat to the vet to determine the cause and course of treatment. The vet will usually recommend a skin patch test to determine the cause and prescribe a topical solution to help the itching. Sometimes, a steroid shot can be given if the case is extreme.

Food Allergies: Cats can be allergic to certain types of foods. While it is true that cats should never be given table foods, some cats can also be allergic to certain types of cat foods. Common allergies to foods are cat foods that contain certain poultry products such as turkey or chicken. Extreme caution should be used when feeding your cat table food. Cats should never be given chocolate and many times dairy products can cause problems with a cat's digestive system. Prescription foods can be given to a cat that experiences food allergies.

Insect Allergies: Fleas top the number one list of what most cats are allergic to. These little biting critters can irritate your cat's skin and can cause excessive itching and scratching. Some cats that are allergic to fleas will have patches of fur that fall out or small bumps on the skin. In addition, black “dirt” may be visible on your cat. This is a sign of fleas and your cat should be treated. If your cat has an allergic reaction to fleas, the first thing you must do it treat the allergies. You vet can prescribe medications or topical solutions to ease the itching and heal the skin. After this is under control, the next step is to treat your cat for the fleas. You vet can prescribe a good treatment that is given at intervals on the cat's skin. Over the counter flea treatments often do not work as well as the prescription. Treating your home for fleas is also a must to ensure that they will not re-infect your cat.

Cleaning Up Cat Messes

2009-09-13T03:00:00.001-07:00

Cats may be cute, furry, and great companions, but they can also be responsible for making terrible messes. These messes can leave stains and lingering odors if not properly cared for. But, with a few simple tricks, these messes don't have to last a lifetime in your carpet or on your furniture.

Cleaning Cat Urine

Cat urine is particularly stinky and it gets worse the longer it sits. This is because bacteria begin feeding on the organic waste in the urine, which converts it to gases. In addition, the longer the urine sits, the more it seeps into the carpet and the underlying pattern or wood floor beneath. This, of course, makes it more difficult to remove.

Fresh urine should be cleaned by first blotting it. To blot urine, an old bath towel should be used to soak up as much liquid as possible. This should be followed up by using paper towels until no more moisture can be seen. The area should then be diluted by spraying heavily with clear water or with a solution of mild white vinegar and water. Afterward, the area should be blotted again. This process should be repeated until the area is sufficiently cleaned.

In some cases, the area will also need to be neutralized. This is particularly true if the odor remains after the carpeting has dried. To accomplish this, chemical odor removers need to be used. Some odor removers are also based on enzymes or both bacteria and enzymes. All of these neutralizers, however, are designed to neutralize odor by eating the bacteria causing the odor.

For old urine stains, a neutralizer is likely to be a necessity because the bacterial process will have already started. Carpets and padding may need to be removed and cleaned, or even replaced, if the urine has been allowed to sink through. If the scent of cat urine lingers, but the source cannot be found, a black light can be of assistance. A black light will illuminate cat urine and make it easier to locate for cleaning.

As a final note, if a cat is urinating outside of its litter box it is a good idea to have the vet take a look at the cat. This behavior is not normal for a cat and it could mean the cat is suffering from a urinary tract infection or other illness.

Taking Care of Cat Feces

Getting rid of firm cat feces is not too difficult. It can be simply picked up with a paper towel and through away. To clean up the residual mess, a small stiff-bristled brush can be used to clean the entire area with a mixture of water and mild detergent. The area should then be blotted, diluted, and blotted again.

If, however, the cat has diarrhea, there can be bacteria present in the feces. This requires a little more attention. To clean diarrhea, the area should be cleaned as much as possible with paper towels and then cleaned with a water and detergent mixture. It should then be rinsed and blotted, and followed up with a neutralizing product, such as an enzymatic cleaner.

Cleaning Cat Vomit

Cats are notorious for vomiting. For the most part, vomit stains should be treated the same as diarrhea. A cat that eats food with red dyes, however, may produce vomit that is nearly impossible to remove. If this happens, a professional may need to be called in order to remove the stain.

Preventing Cat “Spray”

A cat that sprays can be a nuisance. The scent of the spray is nearly enough to take the breath away from a pet owner. Just with urine, the best way to clean cat spray is to catch it quickly. Another method, however, is to prevent the spray in the first place. With many cats, simply spaying or neutering the cat can accomplish this. For some cats, however, this doesn't stop the spraying. In addition, some cat owners do not want to spay or neuter their pets.

Another option for preventing spray is to use a pheromone based training product. These products mimic the pheromones found naturally in cats. When they are sprayed in the cat's environment, the cat loses its natural impulse to mark its territory.

Cat Parasite Problems

2009-09-13T02:57:00.000-07:00

When your family feline has parasites, just remember that it bears no reflection necessarily on your own hygiene habits. You can maintain a super clean home. You can wash and groom your pet regularly. You can treat them for fleas and ticks. However, chances are that your cat will still get some type of parasite. Parasites in your family cat are embodied in both external and internal forms. Externally, fleas and ticks are the most common parasites and are usually treated regularly. However, other external parasites include ear mites and lice. Internal parasites are primarily in the form of a worm. And unfortunately for cats, these worms come in a variety of shapes and sizes as well as bring a number of different health issues too.

To understand the possible forms of parasites that might inhabit your cat's body, let's get a little more in-depth about the most common parasites that were previously listed above:

Fleas – These pesky critters are perhaps the most known parasite of them all. And because adult fleas can reproduce thousands upon thousands of young, this makes a flea infestation hard to control. In cats, fleas can be particularly bothersome. They bite cats to obtain a meal of blood and the saliva the flea produces and injects into the cat can cause severe skin allergies. When the cats scratch, this action irritates and sometimes breaks the skin causing scabs.

Ticks – These blood suckers are also a widely know external parasite. They live for blood and need it in order to lays eggs so that even more ticks can hatch. Ticks are mostly commonly found in heavily wooded areas as well as fields of grass. They will latch onto the tops of blades of grass or weeds, just waiting for the next available warm body to latch onto. Ticks carry several diseases like Lymes disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. More common in cats however are various conditions like Cytauxzoon and Ehrlichia. The Cytauxzoon is a protozoan that causes such symptoms as fever, anemia and lack of appetite. This condition is usually fatal.

Ear Mites and Lice – Ear mites are tiny little crab-like creatures that live in the ear canal and nibble on ear secretions and other tissue in the ear. This critter is common and easily treated. The most obvious signs of an ear mite problem include head shaking, ear scratching and dark grainy discharge from the ears. Lice cause a similar reaction in cats as they do in humans. The poor cats scratch a lot and they tend to lose some fur or have a dull coat. Luckily, lice are easily treated with topical shampoos.

Worms – These internal parasites come in a variety of shapes, sizes and names. The most common internal parasites are the roundworm and tapeworm. These can be seen in the cat's feces without the aid of a microscope if the animal is indeed infected. Roundworms can be transmitted via a mother's milk or while still inside the mother's womb. These worms look like spaghetti noodles. The tapeworm can be transmitted via flea larvae, especially if ingested. This worm looks flat and segmented. When veterinarians test your cat's fecal matter, the tapeworm is the least likely to be detected.

Other worms that can inhabit your cat's body include the hookworm and the whipworm. The hookworm is small and skinny with a hook-like end that can easily latch onto the lining of the intestine. It loves blood and will latch on for a filling meal. Signs of poor appetite, weight loss and anemia are often indicators of the hookworm. The whipworm gets its name from its shape and their eggs are usually ingested by contaminated food or water or when your cat nibbles on another animal's droppings.

It is important that your cat's feces be tested for worms by your veterinarian at each check-up. And if your family feline is exhibiting any abnormal behavior, chances are, an infestation of worms could be the culprit. Knowing exactly which parasitic worm is the problem will also help greatly in the treatment and deworming process because not every worm medication will treat every parasitic worm. The best way to prevent parasite invaders is to take precautions. Wash frequently and note any unusual behaviors in your cat. Treat them regularly for fleas and ticks. Make deworming a part of your normal routine in maintaining your cat's health.

Kitten Care

2009-09-13T02:52:00.000-07:00

Even if you've had years of experience with adult cats, taking care of a kitten is a whole new world. Kittens eat differently, sleep differently, and need time to adjust to changes both inside their bodies and in the outside world. Learn about a kitten's basic needs and how to help your kitten grow into a happy, healthy adult cat.

Make Your Home Kitten-Proof

What, exactly, does kitten-proofing entail? Particularly if you already have older cats, what more do you need to do?

For one thing, kittens are much more active and curious than older cats. Like human babies, they often satisfy your curiosity by chewing everything in site. For this reason, you should purchase all-natural cat litter—not the clumping clay variety that is commonly used with older cats.

Another element of kitten-proofing your home is giving the kitten a safe place to be. This need not be an entire room, but it does need to be quiet and closed off from other animals. After a few days, give the kitten and the other animals some closely supervised time to get acquainted. If your new kitten has not been to the vet, keep it quarantined from other animals until you can be certain he doesn't have any infectious diseases. Give the animals a few weeks to get used to each other and don't push too hard; before you know it, the safe room will be a thing of the past!

The First Visit To The Vet

The first visit to the vet should take place shortly after you've gotten your kitten, particularly if it was a stray and you do not know its medical history. This is particularly important if you have other household pets that could be infected if the kitten has any communicable diseases. Until you take the new kitten to the vet, you will need to keep him away from the other pets.

At the veterinarian's office, your kitten will undergo a detailed physical exam. This will include looking at baby teeth to determine age, measuring temperature, palpating organs, listening to the heart, brushing fur for signs of fleas, and checking eyes and ears. After the physical exam is complete, the vet will perform several lab tests, such as:

Fecal float checks for worms
Blood Tests check for FeLV and FIV viruses

Depending on your kitten's age when you first take her to the vet, she may be vaccinated. Vaccinations take place at 9 to 10 weeks of age. Kittens are given a booster shot at 12–14 weeks and possibly a Rabies vaccine, depending on local laws or if your cat is considered at risk.

Two procedures that may be taken care of at different times are spaying/neutering and declawing. Some vets prefer to spay/neuter at a younger age, as it may be better for the cat. You need to make a separate appointment for this. Unlike spaying and neutering, declawing is a more debatable procedure. Learn more about the benefits and disadvantages of this procedure before you make a final decision.

Social Growth

In his first month and a half of growth, a new kitten experiences tremendous changes. Typically, new cat owners will not bring home a kitten until week 6, when it has been weaned off its mother's milk. For this reason, typically new kitten owners will be more involved in the social growth than physical growth.

If the mother was comfortable with humans, the kittens will usually learn that behavior and learn to socialize easily with people. However, if your kitten has not become accustomed to being handled by humans by the age of six weeks, it will be difficult to train this behavior later, and the cat may always be somewhat more skittish than others.

Be sure to teach your kitten at a young age that hands are not toys—they feed, pet and hold the kittens.

Introducing Canned Food

Kittens need many more nutrients than adult cats. However; with smaller stomachs they must each more regularly. A six-week-old kitten should have four daily feedings until he reaches 12 weeks of age. From 12 weeks to six months, she can take three daily feedings. After that point, feed your kitten once daily, like other adult cats.

When choosing food, keep your kitten's health top priority. Do not feed your kitten:

table scraps or milk
dog food
adult cat food

All of these may be easy options for you, the pet owner, but the kitten will not receive the nutrients she needs. Instead, feed her a well-balanced diet of food made specifically for developing kittens. Begin with canned food, which is more calorie-laden for energetic kittens. Later on, you can start supplementing with dry food.

Now that you've learned the basics of kitten care, bring home your new kitten and enjoy the time you spend together. She'll be an adult cat before you know it!

Best Home Security By Pets -

Economical And Safe For Your Little Pooch

2009-09-12T13:11:00.000-07:00

The world of your canine friend revolves around you. He loves you and is emotionally attached to you. He shows some of his best behaviors thereby displaying his gratitude to you. Obviously you also don't stay behind. You make the best of all efforts to make his life comfortable and happy. Not only are you bothered about his physical comforts by getting clothes, collars, leashes, feeders, beds, but also about his mental satisfaction by getting him toys that he can play with. Cheap dog toys can prove to be beneficial to your budget as you can get various kinds in order to keep your pup happy.

It is a very innate and a spontaneous behavior, common in all breeds and sizes of dogs, to chew anything and everything, that comes in their way, whatever it may be. Chewable dog toys can be chewed and played with simultaneously by your pets. Some pets have an itching gum so they feel like biting anything that they get. These toys are an ideal way to satisfy their itching tooth. dog toys are safe to chew and after the toys are released they original shape is immediately resumed. Dogs enjoy the act of chewing, gnawing, ripping and tearing apart; this is part of their animal tendencies. This behavior is unchangeable because they are blessed with this inclination, but you can change the things that they chew on in order to avoid damage to your furniture and other personal items. You can replace your personal belongings, which your dogs may find really attractive to satisfy the instinct of chewing and ripping, with cheap dog toys. The advantage of buying cheap dog toys for your pet is that once they have become worn out, you can just buy new ones to replace those that are old and frayed.

No matter to what breed your dog belongs to, you can buy squeaky cheap dog toys. Toys play an important role in a pet's life. These toys have been designed keeping in mind that dogs love to chew on things and they love to hear different noises. They hunt, run and show aggression and when the toys squeak, it gives them immense pleasure and satisfaction and thus stimulates their spirits.

Huge hounds chew quite aggressively, so appropriate cheap dog toys designed especially for them should be bought. Small toys might choke them, so you need to supervise efficiently and accordingly cater to their needs. Shop safely for your doggie and he will be proud to display the various kinds of cheap dog toys you get for him! Rubber bones, toy ropes, rubber tire or other such chewable toys can be a perfect choice for your pooches. You can get all of these cheap dog toys from online pet stores on the Internet without any hassles and without having to leave the comfort of your home. With a click of the mouse, you could buy cheap dog toys and pay for them through your credit card or debit card.

Small Dog Sweaters Keep Them Warm

2009-09-12T12:47:00.000-07:00

To enjoy winters it is important to stay fit and this can only happen with proper care by wearing warm clothes, socks, shoes, gloves and if needed a muffler to cover the neck to prevent the bitter cold from getting into our body, and when it comes to pets then the concern increases all the more because dogs, especially pups have little options to communicate and express their needs and wants. The solution for all this is simply to take precautions and for this small dog sweaters are available. These sweaters are designed with the utmost care so that puppies keep warm in spite of the severe cold and chilly winds.

Small dog sweaters are available in various sizes and colors to suit pups of all kinds. The sweaters vary from small, medium to large size to fit pups of all breed. Furthermore, they can also be altered incase if it is a little bit tight or loose to the pup. Small dog sweaters come along in various designs like a cap or a hood, attached to cover the head and ears from the cold breeze; it can also have a scarf or a ribbon to tie at the back. These days dog sweaters also come with pockets of all sizes and in front or back accordingly. Besides, it also comes with accessories of all kinds like matching socks, shoes, hat, scarf, muffler, bow and anything that are in fashion. Sometimes a simple head band also looks cute with the small dog sweaters.

These days sweaters also come in various prints to make the small dog sweaters more attractive. Plain colors are evergreen that are available in almost all colors. Thus, with changing times there are sweaters of all kinds available for pups. Little dogs are so sensitive that they need extra care and protection and so sweaters are the best way to protect them with chilly and breezy winters.

Small dog sweaters come in all types of sleeves as well, from full sleeves to sleeveless. The sleeveless sweaters can be worn when there is less cold and full sleeves are for extreme cold. There are sleeves that are of half length also depending on the weather or climatic conditions. This shows that whatever the weather be small dog sweaters are always ready and accessible to safeguard the pups and help them fight back cold. The dog sweaters also come in a set of two or three pieces, where there are sweaters as well as pants to cover the hands and legs for complete shelter from cold. On the whole it covers the entire body of the pup in places where there is snowfall to the extreme. These small dog sweaters also come in all shapes and colors, the buyer just needs to ask for the color and it is ready. Dog sweaters keep changing every year and new styles are introduced year after year so that pets too should follow the latest trend and fashion.

Sweaters For Dogs

2009-09-12T12:39:00.000-07:00

Your pet dog wags his tail, and you feel like taking him into your arms and pampering him or cuddling him up. Your love for your dog can be as deep as for any other family member. Obviously you want to bring him up in the best possible way and give him all the comforts of life. Not only have you aggrandized his little wardrobe with smart clothing, booties, toys, collars, leashes and bowls but also have arranged a cozy bed in his dog house. You have made sure to get perfect clothing for him to suit the causal occasions like going to a park for walk or to any friend's house, and formal events like weddings and Halloween or Christmas party. Sweaters for dogs cannot be forgotten in this regard.

You would never want your poodle to suffer from the harsh and cold winds. Though he has been blessed with a natural furry coat to protect him from chilling climate, but taking him as a part of your family, you take this extra effort to protect him from dire weather conditions. You then buy sweaters for dogs and keep him warm. The dog fashion industry has come up with several designer sweaters for dogs and you have an ample range of collection to choose from.

Woolens and sweaters for dogs come in various styles, patterns and colors. Some are simply woven while there are others which are studded with precious and semiprecious stones to make it look more elegant. Fleece coats have also flourished in the market. Sweaters, coats and the fleece t-shirts are made from various fabrics including denim, feather, lace, fur, faux and even leather. To add more beauty to these designer winter-wears, they are bejeweled with crystals, hearts, bows, buttons, and pearls and even gold or silver. Depending on the material and design, evidently, the price also varies. The pattern of these winter garments too varies. Knitting is the most common method used for making sweaters for dogs. Mufflers, mittens, scarves, tanks and body suits can also be woven for complete protection of your pampered pooches.

Sometimes if you feel that sweaters for dogs are not enough to prevent them from chilling winds, you can also opt for coats. For your feminine diva you can get a coat made from fur. These coats are trendy and warm and keep your pet happy in winter. You may want to knit some sweaters for your canine friend, and show your love for him, but with the market full of designer garments and that too at affordable prices, why not get something more fanciful for him. Moreover, there has been a great revolution in the dog fashion industry and there is a stiff competition among the dog owners to dress their pooches smartly. You can also buy sweaters for dogs from some boutiques and make your sophisticated friend look modish. This also shows your love and care for your bona FIDO member of the family.

Get Cozy With Your Furry Friend

2009-09-12T11:08:00.001-07:00

Come winter and you have to be all geared up to warm up to your furry friend. Yes! We are talking about your pet dog. Pet dogs, which are tiny, old or sick, have to be taken care of when the winter season sets in. The best thing to do is to start shopping and stocking some warm and cozy winter wear before its starts to get really cold and chilly. Sometimes these pets have to be protected from the cool winds of the rainy season too. Pet dogs are too active and you never know when they suddenly step out of the house and get attacked by the cold winds outside and it is not possible for you to keep a 24/7 watch on them, so it is better that you keep them warm by providing them with some great looking knitted dog sweaters. Warm clothes like jackets, jumpsuits and coats are not enough for the severe winters, so it is best to shop for some knitted dog sweaters, which are available in most pet shops or even online pet shops.

There is a huge variety out there in bright colors or pastels colors. Some dog sweaters are even hand knitted at home. Knitted dog sweaters are great to shop during the Christmas season where you can choose colors like white, red and green to get your pet dog into the holiday mood. You could even buy some knitted Santa Claus caps and some warm booties or you even order some of your own designs and specifications. It is great fun shopping for your pet dog, whether it is for summer, winter or the rainy season; there is so much to choose from. Each season has its own charm and come winters, you could cozy up with your pet dog by the fireplace and cuddle your pet that is already warmed up in cute little knitted dog sweaters.

Knitted dog sweaters are not at all costly, you could buy them according to your budget; they are of great quality, long lasting and easy to get washed and worn again. You could get knitted dog sweaters for small dogs as well as big dogs. Knitted dog sweaters, are so daintily done that they look so cute on small dogs. Though crochet sweaters are a new trend, but here is nothing like a traditionally knitted sweater to keep you pet dog warm and relaxed during the winters, which at times could be harsh and severe. When you shop for some knitted dog sweaters, make sure you divide the sweater collection into two parts; one is the light weight sweaters for the mild winters and the heavier ones for the very severe winters. The main function of these sweaters is to keep your pet dog warm and cozy, but that does not mean you do not get designer ones or stylish ones. Your pet dog is your true companion, so it is upon you to provide him with the best.

Making Sense of a Bird Cage

2009-09-12T10:50:00.000-07:00

Your child struggled with a bully most of the school year, and ended up breaking her leg on the school picnic. She isn't going to be able to do much the first several weeks of summer, so you decide to get her something she's asked for every Christmas and birthday, a bird. But you're a dog person, and don't know the first thing about this bird and its needs. What kind of bird cage are you going to need? Do you really have to have all the bird toys and gadgets you see in the cages of friends?

A bird cage is your pet's home, and you'll want to give them a good bit of room to move around in. Birds are happiest when they can flutter about. Sure, your daughter and others in your family will want to take the bird out and play with it. But you can't keep it out all the time it needs to exercise. First, you need to decide what kind of bird you want to get. Different species requires different attributes in their homes. Set the bird cage up near a window so your bird can get natural light and fresh air. Some people even set them cages outside. In a moderate climate, that's wonderful to do. You want to look for a metal cage, which is much easier to clean than anything else on the market.

You will need to set up different perches in your bird cage so that your pet can get the exercise it needs while in its cage. Obviously one needs to be by its food and water. You don't want the cage to be cluttered, so put two or three perches in there.

Birds love bird toys, and want a variety of toys. You may want to purchase several toys and trade a couple once a month or something like that. Birds are intelligent animals that need to be stimulated. Toys also help maintain your bird's beak and nails. bird toys also allow birds to use their energy wisely, instead of screaming or nipping at people. You will want to make sure that every toy you buy is sturdy and will not fall apart. They should also be toxic free. You are going to need to replace toys because birds need to chew on things. And it is far better to replace toys than furniture.

Okay, so it is necessary to have bird toys, but what kind of toys do birds like? Ropes always make good toys. Bells are another things most birds really enjoy. These pets are also attracted to anything that is colorful and bright. They also like and need to figure things out. So one thing you can try is to put some colorful objects in a bottle and let them figure out how to open the bottle and get everything out. Birds even like playing with toilet paper rolls.

Now that you know what to look for in a bird cage and bird toys, go out and get what you need today. Your daughter will be glad that you did.

King Charles Spaniel Dog Secrets Revealed

2009-09-12T07:40:00.001-07:00

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a sweet-natured and even-tempered dog that enjoys bringing affection and spirited fun to a household.

General Appearance and Description

These spirited dogs are not called “King” for nothing. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is friendly, eager to please and always a crowd pleaser, thanks to its sweet and elegant looks.

The Cavalier Spaniel usually has dark and expressive eyes that are large. They don’t dominate the face, but always get attention. They have a wavy silky coat that’s usually black and tan.

Basic Temperament

The King Charles Cavalier is outgoing and affectionate. He will always want to please you and is intelligent enough to know what you need from him.

The Cavalier King Charles is descended from hunting dogs, so he loves to run around in the great outdoors. It’s important, then, that the Cavalier Spaniel is kept on a leash and in a fenced background. Their desire to explore and hunt can often cause harm.

Like all small dogs, this dog needs to know who the boss is. Make sure you establish yourself as the pack leader so he doesn’t think he needs to take that role for himself.

Care Required

This dog has a good amount of fur to manage, so brush him often and bathe or shampoo him as needed. The hair on the ears, which is long, can tangle and mat, so the ears should be brushed often. Even the hair between the pads on the feet should be looked after.

Not an ideal dog for those with allergies, this dog sheds at an average rate.

For the most success with king charles spaniel dog; it is suggested you take the time to do a little online research.

Exercise Requirements

Give your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel a regular walk, and give him plenty of playtime. The Cavalier Spaniel dogs do well in apartments and home environments that don’t give them much of an outdoor area as long as they get that regular walk.

Take care in extreme conditions, as Cavalier King Charles Spaniels can be sensitive to heat and cold.

Training

Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are relatively easy to train, thanks to their intelligence and desire to please. They are intuitive, so they will understand what you want and will be able to perform as you wish through the use of this intuitive nature.

These dogs are capable of learning complicated obedience tricks and do well in competitive competitions.

Height and Weight

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will be about 12 to 13 inches high in adulthood and should weigh somewhere between 10 and 18 pounds.

Health and Longevity

Cavalier Spaniel dogs are prone to a number of health issues. Some of these problems include kneecaps that dislocate, ear infections, hearing trouble, and back problems. They also often suffer from hereditary eye diseases.

Unfortunately, many dogs will also carry a hereditary tendency toward heart problems, which can be fatal. For this reason, many canine experts suggest choosing a dog whose medical history can be checked going back several generations.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniels also gain weight easily so their diet needs to be carefully watched.

Most Cavalier King Charles Spaniels will live from 9 to 14 years.

Suitability

These dogs are excellent hunting dogs and are often introduced into homes with this intention. King Charles Cavalier dogs don’t necessarily enjoy being in a home with children. Most experts suggest that this dog be placed in a home with only older children.

The Cavalier Spaniel does get along well with other dogs and other non-canine pets, however.

Artificial grass and pets

2009-09-12T04:59:00.000-07:00

Tired of struggling to keep your backyard green - because that love of your life - your dog - doesn’t seem to share your same passion for that? The unfortunate reality is that when animals urinate on grass - typically in the same spots over and over again - it kills the grass. It is for this reason that artificial grass is gaining popularity with dog lovers. It is being installed at dog kennels. It is being used in pet training facilities! It is even being used by service providers that sell/market carriers and used with absorbent pads in apartment facilities.

Purchase Green offers products from multiple artificial grass manufacturers that are all pet friendly! They also have artificial grass installation partners available to assist dog lovers with their artificial grass installation.

Artificial grass pricing and specifications at your finger tips. Pictures of artificial grass products - both product pictures and installed pictures - at your finger tips. Lead test results for all their products are available! Artificial grass and synthetic turf product specification sheets - again available online! They are available for consultation for first time and/or new installers. They will provide on-the-job installation training.

Synthetic turf and artificial grass dealer Purchase Green is proud to announce it’s grand opening as the first true online dealer of artificial grass, synthetic turf, and artificial grass accessories. Artificial grass products are bacteria free and allergen free. They also don’t require the use of fertilizers and pesticides that may be harmful to pets. They save water as well!

Ways to Save Millions of Pet Lives

2009-09-12T04:47:00.000-07:00

Every year millions of cats and dogs are put to sleep – about 5 million a year in the USA alone or 10 every minute.

There's nothing wrong with the animals. They are perfectly healthy and fit and the animal societies, shelters and pounds have given them their health shots. They are killed because nobody wants them .There's no homes for them.

And that's not counting other creatures that people no longer want like horses, ferrets, rats and birds.

But there are three ways you can stop this useless killing.

1.

Don't buy a pet on impulse. They're not toys. They're living creatures like you and me. Buying pets as surprise presents can be a big mistake in the long term.

Think carefully before you obtain a pet and do some research. Consider the commitment you are making and what things it will involve you in time wise and money wise.
2.

Have your pet desexed, male or female. This will save many innocent lives by reducing the population.
3.

Adopt a pet from an animal shelter or pound. This will save you money and save a life.

Desexing is particularly important. For example in Australia the Animal Welfare League is successfully progressing towards achieving zero euthanasia for cats and dogs through desexing.

For the past five years the AWL and vets have offered reduced desexing prices in an attempt to turn the tide of kittens and puppies arriving in the breeding season. Each year in Australia 200,000 healthy and sociable cats and dogs lose their lives simply because there are not enough homes for them.

Already there has been a reduction in the number of kittens euthanased.

Owners should note that a cat or dog does not have to have had a litter before it is desexed.

Desexing at two to four months is as safe as six months due to advances in anaesthetics and surgical procedures.

A kitten or pup desexed at two to four months recovers quicker with less healing time than an older animal.

Desexing does not make your pet fat – overfeeding and lack of exercise does.

Undesexed males are 50 per cent of unwanted pets and are more likely to get into fights.

Also it's cheaper to register a desexed dog.

Problem Dogs

2009-09-11T03:48:00.001-07:00

Many dogs have inadvertently learned incorrect behaviour from their owners and require to be educated in how to behave correctly. It would be very unusual for a dog to be simply "bad" or "untrainable", in the vast majority of cases the dog has simply learned bad behaviour - or not learned "good" behaviour!

The first step is to remain calm and in control, shouting, smacking and screaming are not as effective as consistent positive training (i.e. rewarding the dog for good behaviour - with treats initially and then just with attention, cuddles etc - and ignoring them when they behave inappropriately).

Secondly make sure the dog realises that you are the "pack leader" and not the other way around, many owners try to spoil their dogs in the vain hope of an easy life - this is far from the case, once your dog realises that it can get the attention/treats/rewards it desires by repeating patterns of (bad) behaviour, essentially the dog will be training you! This is why many people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs dont realise whether barking is a good thing or a bad thing. Sometimes when the dog barks, it is ignored. Other times, the dog is praised (warding off possible intruders). And yet other times, the dog is shouted at (owner has a headache/is tired/is on the telephone etc). People are consistently inconsistent, especially when it comes to their pets!

When it comes to housetraining, remember that your dog is an instinctively clean animal. If the dog can avoid it, it would rather not soil itself or her usual eating and sleeping area. All the dog needs is positive encouragement when it eliminates in correct places.

A popular, modern method for dog training and obedience is "Clicker training", this is a slang term used to describe a way of training dogs that has become increasingly popular in the last decade due to its gentle and effective methods. The scientific term for it is operant conditioning. Simply put simply put, an dog tends to repeat an action that has a positive consequence and tends not to repeat one that has a negative consequence. The problem with other types of conditioning is that it is difficult to reinforce good behaviour at a distance, the clicker allows you to mark with great precision the good behaviour for which the dog is being reinforced, even if it the dog is some distance from you.

The clicker is a simple cheap and effective device, basically it’s just a metal strip encased in a plastic box that when pressed makes a unique sharp clicking noise that the dog can distinguish easily from background noises. If you are having any problems training your dog this should be the first product on your shopping list.

Different Types of Cat Barrier

2009-09-11T03:47:00.000-07:00

Cats, similar to dogs, are physically active domesticated animals and letting them roam around inside your house without supervision could cause damage and scratches to your beddings and furniture. If you want to prevent that from happening, the use of cat barriers such as cat doors, enclosure or playpen is very helpful to keep your feline friend in a safe and contained area. Such pet containment systems are also a great way to keep your cat away from aggressive dogs and other dangerous stray animals in the neighborhood.

Here are a few types of cat barriers and the many good benefits they can bring to you and your beloved cat:

Cat Doors
Cat barrier, in the form of a cat door, will allow your kitty to enter and exit the house in a safe manner. As you all know, cats are naturally territorial and they immensely enjoy playing inside and outside the house. If you have a small cat door installed specifically for her, it can make the life of your cat easier and convenient. Hence, there’s no more need to exert effort to open the main door at all times to let her out or in.

Cat Flaps
This unique feline door design will let your cat to enter and exit a house on their own without needing you to open the main door from time to time, while providing protection against wind, rain and other harsh elements.

Cat Enclosures
For outdoor use, cat enclosures are very functional to contain your cat in the backyard or the park. More than being a cage, this spacious cat containment system can serve as an outdoor feline barrier where your furry friend can play, run, exercise and rest safely while enjoying the beauty of the outside world.

Cat Playpens
For indoor use, on the other hand, cat playpens and kitten playpens are a great solution. This type of cat barrier provides a comfortable space for your feline pet to stretch out, move around and play inside the house, while preventing her to get in touch with fragile objects such as furniture and other precious decorations. Cat playpen is also ideal to use if you leave your cat home alone.

Cat has a cold

2009-09-11T03:44:00.000-07:00

Cats can get upper respiratory infections or what we call the common cold or flu. However you can not pass a human cold on to your cat and vice versa. The cat 'cold' is a completely different cup of tea. If your cat has any of the below symptoms for more than a day or two he/she probably has an upper respiratory infection.

Upper respiratory infections are extremely contagious (infection can be passed through an airborne contagion or through casual contact) and it is very common for all cats within a household to become infected quickly. Although most of the agents that cause URI do not survive very long (from a few hours to a few weeks) in the environment, they can last a very long time in the cat's respiratory tract in a latent or potent form. Many cats actually will carry the agent in their body for the duration of life. In such a case your cat may suffer from occasional flare-ups when stressed or when the immune system is weak. Such a cat may also pass the agent on to other cats (even if that cat isn't actively sick). Cats can get URI's for a variety of reasons just as people do. These reasons can range from:

*
A bacteria or virus (Chlamydia, Feline Calicivirus, Feline Herpes virus also known as Feline Rhinotracheitis Virus) a majority of UTI's are caused by a virus
*
A parasitic worm infection
*
An allergic reaction

Symptoms to look for:

Sneezing
Runny nose
Coughing
Wheezing
Discharge from the nose or mouth
Respiratory problems
Oral ulcers
Conjunctivitis (discharge from the eye)

Treatment:

If you suspect any sort of "cold" take your cat to the vet immediately for an examination. Although URI's are not terribly serious, your cat can get secondary infections during this time period which could be more serious and can lead to chronic illnesses. Many cats with a cold will also have their appetites suppressed. Cats who do not eat for even just a day or two can be at risk for hepatic lipidosis, which can be a very serious illness. The bottom line is that although a cold in and of itself is not terribly serious, that left untreated, it can turn into a serious illness.

Most cases of URI are taken care of with a course of drug therapy (antibiotics, decongestants, antivirals), rest, lots of food and liquids. Humidification of the nasal passages may also help your cat, you can do this by purchasing a humidifier for the room or bringing your kitty in with you for a nice steaming in the bathroom. However, do not allow your cat to catch a 'chill' if you do get him/her wet.

If you do have a cat that has been on therapy for a few weeks and is still not feeling better, or if your pet has finished his/her course of medication and is still ill your vet may have him/her in for another visit to do some more tests. These may include X-rays of the skull which allow you to see the nasal cavity and frontal sinuses. This can help you determine what, if any damage the infection has done to the nasal passages. A nasal flush can also be performed to collect matter from the nasal cavity. This matter can then be analyzed to better determine what is causing your cat to be ill.

Precautionary measures:

Keep your cat indoors and away from other sick animals. Keep your pet in a clean environment which includes clean food and water bowls and a clean home. Keep your home above 70 degrees and if your cat gets wet either dry him off or make sure he stays warm while he dries off. You can also talk to your vet about yearly vaccinations to ward off such infections.

Pets planet: Dental Care for your Cat

2009-09-10T04:53:00.001-07:00

Pets planet: Dental Care for your Cat

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Heart Disease in Cats

2009-09-10T04:25:00.001-07:00

Cats, as most people know, are extremely stoic animals. It is very rare that a cat will complain about pain or discomfort. This may seem like a desirable trait to some, but in fact, it makes it much more difficult to determine whether or not the cat needs medical attention. Luckily, our feline companions do not seem to be prone to the myriad of diseases that dogs seem to be. However, they can acquire their fair share of medical problems. For example, one of the more common heart diseases in cats is known as feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (FHCM), a serious and progressive disease of the heart muscle.

The heart is a phenomenal organ and is quite possibly the most important organ in the body. It acts as a central pump, moving oxygen and nutrient-carrying blood from the lungs to the rest of the body.

The blood moves around the body in a circuit that is controlled by the pumping of the heart, making some vital stops along the way. The heart has four basic chambers, the right and left atrium, and the right and left ventricle. When the muscles in the right and left atrium are contracting, they push the blood into their respective ventricles. The ventricles have thick muscular walls, as they are responsible for pumping blood to distant areas of the body. When the muscles of the right ventricle contract, the blood in the chamber is pushed to the lungs, where the oxygen is taken up by the red blood cells. This blood then returns to the left atrium and subsequently the left ventricle, where another contraction pushes the blood to the rest of the body. Other organs, such as the brain, kidney, stomach, and liver, receive this oxygen-containing blood. This circuit is continuous as long as the heart keeps pumping.

Heart disease is divided into two categories: congenital (diseases that are present at birth) and acquired (diseases that develop later in life). When something goes wrong with the heart, there are a number of things that can be the source of the problem. Valves in the heart, which regulate blood flow between the chambers, can be leaky or unable to open wide enough. There can be holes present in the muscle walls between the chambers or between the major vessels. The muscle walls can become damaged or changed for several reasons. Any of these can cause changes to the amount of blood that is circulating around the body, and if severe enough, the disease will present itself in some characteristic symptoms, such as trouble breathing and fainting.

In cats, feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is a disease of the heart muscle. There is no definitive cause for this disease, but it is known to often be associated with high blood pressure or hyperthyroidism. In the case of FHCM, the muscle of the left ventricle becomes thickened and stiff so that it cannot be easily fill with blood. The condition can be compared to a balloon – a fresh new balloon fills easily with air as it stretches, while an old and stiff balloon does not fill as well, because it does not stretch. If the left ventricle of the heart has trouble filling with blood, there is less volume of blood in the chamber before the next contraction, and as a result, less blood is pumped around the body with each heart beat. When there is not enough oxygen-rich blood reaching the brain, episodes of fainting can occur. In addition, if blood is not being pumped out to the body and starts backing up in the heart, the increased pressure causes fluid to leak into the lungs making it difficult for the cat to breath.

FHCM is a condition that affects mainly middle aged cats, although younger cats can also be affected. It is much more common in males than females, and seems to be more prevalent in Persians and Maine Coons.

Symptoms
Symptoms of this disease include loss of appetite, lethargy or weakness, sudden development of difficulty breathing or fainting. It should be noted, however, that symptoms are not always present and the first sign of disease could be sudden death. Another consequence of the disease may be the formation of a blood clot that lodges in a blood vessel near the hind limbs, resulting in paralysis and loss of blood supply to the hind limbs. It is therefore important to bring your cat to your veterinarian every year for a thorough physical examination. Your veterinarian will check for heart murmurs and changes in heart rhythms that can suggest heart disease.

Diagnosis
FHCM is diagnosed with some very specific tests that may require referral to a cardiologist. Your veterinarian will first perform a thorough physical exam and will check the heart for murmurs and abnormal rhythms, as well as examine the entire body for other abnormalities. The blood will be tested for signs of other diseases that can be affecting the heart. X-rays of the chest will be taken to see if any of the heart chambers appear enlarged, and to determine whether or not the lungs are clear. An electrocardiogram (ECG) is a recording of the electrical activity of the heart and will tell your veterinarian about the abnormalities in the heart rhythm, and changes in the size of the chambers. Finally, an ultrasound of the heart can be performed by a cardiologist to visualize abnormalities and the ability of the heart to pump effectively.

Treatment
Before a treatment protocol is developed for your cat, thorough bloodwork must be performed to rule out other diseases that may be present, such as kidney failure. The functional ability of other organs is important in determining the medications that will be prescribed and the management of the heart disease.

The goal of treating FHCM, as it is a progressive disease (meaning that it gets worse over time), is to treat the symptoms and try to prevent the disease from progressing. The treatment protocol depends on the severity of the disease and the symptoms that the cat is experiencing. For example, if your cat is having difficulty breathing there are medications that help reduce the fluid load in the lungs to make breathing easier. Medications may also be prescribed to help the heart function better, by slowing down the heart rate and improve the muscle relaxation in the ventricle. A medication, such as aspirin, may also be recommended to prevent clots from forming if your cat is at risk. administration of this, however, must only be done following the instructions of your veterinarian.

Prognosis
Cats that are not showing symptoms of disease may live for years without problems. The longevity and quality of life for symptomatic cats, however, depends on the stage of the disease. Unfortunately, those with heart failure may live approximately one year or less. It is important to remember that, ultimately, it is the quality and not the quantity of life that counts.

Diarrhea and constipation in cats

2009-09-10T04:22:00.000-07:00

Intestinal disorders
•Diarrhea may be trivial or life-threatening
•Bowel problems can originate outside the bowels
•The liver and pancreas are vital for digestion

The intestines are a vital part of the immune system, and some
inflammatory bowel diseases and dietary allergies are really manifestations of immune disorders.

Diarrhea
Damage to the digestive system may result in diarrhea. It may be painful, be accompanied by vomiting, or contain blood or mucus. It can be associated with an increase or loss of appetite, normal behavior, or severe lethargy. From its characteristics, one can reasonably accurately determine the causes of diarrhea, which include:
• Eating grass
• Dietary allergy or sensitivity;
• Food poisoning;
• Parasites (such as Giardia);
• Viruses (FPV, FeLV, FIV, FCoV);
• Bacteria (such as Campylobacter);
• Drugs;
• Hyperthyroidism.

Treatment: Diarrhea is treated symptomatically. The known cause is eliminated. Withhold food for a few hours, but allow your cat to drink. Fluid therapy is essential when acute diarrhea is caused by FIE (feline infectious enteritis) infection (see p.214).

Many experts recommend feeding a cat its regular diet to provide the gut flora with familiar food. Antibiotics are never used unless bacterial infection
is suspected.

Consult your vet at once if your cat is
lethargic, has a fever, or passes blood.

Ask the vet
Q: Does milk cause diarrhea?
A: Any dietary change may cause diarrhea.
Milk may cause it in cats that no longer produce sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, as they did as kittens. If your cat suffers from diarrhea when it drinks milk, feed it lactose-free milk for cats, available in supermarkets.

If your cat is badly dehydrated by persistent diarrhea or vomiting, it may need to be put temporarily on an intravenous drip.

Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
This is a group of increasingly diagnosed diseases related to the immune system. Affected cats, often middle-aged, usually have chronic vomiting and diarrhea, defecate more frequently, lose weight and litter training, and look malnourished. Treatment: Your vet will start your cat on a hypoallergenic diet and prescribe
immune-suppressing drugs, such as corticosteroids.
Cats with IBD respond to dietary supplements. Antioxidants, such as zinc, selenium, and vitamins A and E, may improve the immune system. Bioflavonoids, such as proanthocyanidin, may work with vitamin C to support immune function and scavenge free radicals. N-acetyl glucosamine may reduce inflammation. Vitamins B12 and K and folate are also beneficial.

Intestinal obstruction
The most common cause of this is a tumor invading the gastrointestinal system. Affected cats may vomit, have diarrhea, and lose weight. By then, your vet will probably be able to feel a lump in the abdomen. Surgically removing the mass and associated tissue is successful if it has not spread elsewhere.

Constipation
Although not uncommon, constipation can be serious if the colon dilates into a megacolon and loses its function. In most cases the reason for megacolon is unknown, but it can be caused by diet, trauma, and neuromuscular disease. Affected cats vomit, appear depressed, stop eating, and strain to pass stools.

Constipation is reasonably common in older cats and may have any of several causes. This X-ray clearly shows unexpelled feces in the colon.

Identifying intestinal problems through stool analysis
CHARACTERISTIC CAUSE

Consistency:
Watery
Covered in jelly (mucus)
Oily, greasy
Bubbly

Rapid transit through gut
Large-intestine condition (colitis)
Malabsorption condition (fat)
Gas-forming bacteria in intestines

Colour:
Tarry, black
Clots or bright red
Pasty, light
Yellow-green

Bleeding from upper digestive tract
Bleeding from lower digestive tract or anus
Lack of bile from liver
Rapid transit through gut

Frequency and quantity:
Small amounts very frequently Large amounts 3-4 times daily

Irritation to colon
Digestion/malabsorption condition in small intestine

Odor:
Normal
Unpleasant

Rapid transit/malabsorption
Bacterial action (fermentation), blood

Other signs:
Vomiting
Weight loss
No weight loss, good appetite

Gastroenteritis
Malabsorption, increased metabolism
Large-intestine condition

Treatment for constipation

•Mild cases are treated with enemas given by the vet. Do not do this at home. Given incorrectly, an enema can cause severe damage.

•Soak dry food in equal parts of water and feed only when it is fully absorbed. This increases fluid consumption.

•In multicat households make sure each cat has its own litter box and clean it regularly.

•A little cow's milk, bran fiber, or psyllium (ask your pharmacist) added to a cat's diet may act as a laxative or increase the frequency of defecation.

•Use a mild laxative, such as lactulose, as instructed by your veterinarian.

•In the most serious instances, surgical removal of the colon is an option. Cat owners say their cat's personality and elimination habits return to normal.

Anal-sac irritation
Anal-sac blockage or infection causes a cat to groom its bottom obsessively, so much so that it licks the hair off its hind legs and belly. Irritation from tapeworms causes similar, but less intense, licking. Infection causes a swelling on the affected side, to the left or right of the anus.
Treatment: Uncomplicated blocked anal sacs are emptied by squeezing by your vet. If the sac swells and bursts through the skin, producing a draining abscess, your veterinarian will prescribe antibiotics.

Distended belly
Obesity is the most common cause of a distended abdomen. Other reasons are: tumors; accumulation of fluid (ascites), which develops most frequently as a result of feline infectious peritonitis (see right) or liver disease; and a general enlargement of organs as a result of, for example, womb infection (pyometra),
immune disorders (enlarged spleen), or an overactive adrenal gland (enlarged liver). See your vet if your cat's abdomen is distended and you do not know why.

Feline coronavirus (FCoV) and
feline infectious peritonitis (FIP)
Some strains of FCoV cause mild diarrhea. Others cause a serious, often fatal infection called feline infectious peritonitis (FIP). Shared litter boxes an( mutual grooming are the ways these viruses spread in multicat households. FIP occurs in two different forms: dry, usually affecting the lungs, and wet, leading to fluid accumulation in the abdomen (ascites).
Prevention and treatment: One or two cats living in a home are at little risk. If more cats are introduced, however, they should be blood-tested for FCoV. Limit fecal contamination by cleaning the litter box daily and keeping the cats' food away from their litter box(es). The nasal vaccine is not recommended for routine use but could, in theory, be useful for vaccinating FCoV-negative cats before they enter FCoV-positive environments. Immune-suppressing drugs, such as corticosteroids, are at the heart of treatment. Unfortunately, once ascites develops, any form of treatment is unlikely to be successful.

Anorexia
A loss of appetite (anorexia) can be caused by a range of problems inside o outside the digestive tract. They include pain, injury, disease, fear, stress, an unpalatable diet, and loss of the sense of smell. You should always contact your vet if your cat stops eating.

Liver and pancreatic disorders
Small-bowel disease can ascend into the bile duct, which goes to the liver, and is also connected to the pancreas. Uniquely in cats, small-bowel disorders can lead to pancreas and liver disease. Also, many conditions cause hepatic lipidosis, the most common liver disorder in cats.
• Hepatic lipidosis (HL): HL occurs twice as often in females, especially fat females, as in males. It can be triggered by poor nutrition, obesity, other diseases, or simply not eating. Fat cells accumulate in the liver and affected cats lose their appetite, lose weight, and refuse to eat.
Treatment: HL is life-threatening. Cats must eat, and the most effective way to ensure good hydration and nourishment is by surgically installing a stomach tube (gastrostomy) that remains in place for about a month.
• Liver shunt: After damage from chronic liver disease, blood vessels from the intestines may bypass the liver. Blood does not get purified of substances from the intestines, such as ammonia. These circulating substances cause brain inflammation. Affected cats dribble and stagger, act lethargic, experience seizures, or twitch.
Treatment: This condition can be treated by diet management or surgery.

• Drug-induced liver disease:
Some drugs, safe to humans and dogs, are toxic to cats, causing hepatitis. They include:
• Acetaminophen;
• Aspirin;
• Diazepam (Valium);
• Iron supplements;
• Glipizide (for diabetics);
• Ketoconazole (for ringworm);
• Methimazole (for hyperthyroidism).

Obesity in cats, especially females, can lead to the
common life-threatening condition hepatic lipidosis.
Pancreas problems
Chronic (ongoing) inflammation is the most common pancreatic disease in cats. Affected cats have nonspecific signs, like vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and weight loss. Diagnostic blood tests are not reliable in cats. A biopsy is needed for an accurate diagnosis. Chronic pancreatitis usually accompanies other liver and bowel diseases.

Cats rarely suffer acute (sudden) inflammation to the pancreas or exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, the most common pancreas disorders in dogs.

• Diabetes mellitus: Insulin, produced in the pancreas, helps body cells absorb glucose. A lack of insulin causes blood sugar to increase and leads to diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes), which affects about one in 200-400 cats. High blood sugar alone is not diagnostic for diabetes. Even mild stress increases a cat's blood-sugar value. Diabetes typically causes increased drinking and urinating, combined with weight loss. The onset is slow and often missed by cat owners.
Treatment: Diabetes is often treated with insulin injections and a high protein, reduced-fat diet. Oral drugs to reduce blood sugar can be effective. Once diabetes-induced cataracts develop, their progress is irreversible.

Dental Care for your Cat

2009-09-10T04:20:00.002-07:00

Dental care for your cat can be a good experience, especially when it is started when they are young. The best time to begin dental care is when the kitten is between three and six months old. It is important to begin dental care at this early age because 85% of cats over three, have some form of periodontal disease.

Regular teeth brushing helps keep cats' teeth and gums healthy. A finger brush adapted to your cat's mouth and/or a toothbrush are very effective when used regularly. (Get them at your vet's office)

Cats are especially fond of enzyme and poultry flavored toothpaste (with fluoride). This can help establish a daily ritual that will create a bond between you and your cat, and will maintain fantastic oral hygiene.

It is important to have a regular 6 month checkup of your cat's mouth to ensure that no problem is developing which can affect your cat's general health and/or may be causing some changes in behavior.

Cat Communication

2009-09-10T04:20:00.001-07:00

Cats may not be able to speak English but they do have many other ways in which they can 'talk' to you. Cats are cognitive animals, they solve problems just like any other highly developed species. Cats can and will communicate with you if you allow them to express themselves, talk back to them and try to understand what they are saying. Learn what your cat's different signals mean so that you and your cat can communicate regularly. This will not only improve the bond with your cat and keep your cat happy, but it will also allow you to better read your cat's signals so you know when your cat wants to play or just wants to be left alone!

Tails
Tails are probably one of the best communication indicators that cats have. One can almost read every cat feeling and thought by looking at his/her tail.

*
Tail arched and puffed out or bristled - your cat is scared or fearful and is ready to attack or defend itself. The bristling is instinctual as it makes the cat look larger.
*
Tail straight up in the air and fully puffed out or bristled - your cat is angered, aggressive and ready to attack.
*
Tail straight up in the air and quivering a bit - your cat's tail moves this way when spraying urine to mark territory; however, once your cat is spayed or neutered he/she will continue to move his/her tail this way (without any spray or urine being excreted) when you greet him/her. This is your cats way of saying, 'hi, it's your loving cat!'
*
Tail straight up and unmoving - an unabashed greeting. This is what a mother cat does to her kitten to tell him/her to inspect her rear.
*
Tail straight up but the tip tilted to one side - your cat is very interested and intrigued by something; your cat is happy and friendly.
*
Tail straight up or just slightly raised and curved like a question mark - your cat is very excited and interested in something.
*
Tail curved down and then back up again near the tip - your cat is very relaxed and content.
*
Tail still but tip of tail quivering or twitching - your cat is mildly irritated. Your cat may attack if the twitching becomes violent enough.
*
Tail swishing from side to side rapidly or violently - your cat is about to attack something, this is seen during fights and play time. This is not the same as tail wagging in dogs.
*
Tail held to one side - your cat is giving a sexual invitation (generally only females in heat do this).
*
Tail held low and puffed out or bristled - your cat is intensely afraid.
*
Tail held low and tucked between the hind legs - your cat is showing his submission or defeat.

Ears
Cats ears are another way that a cat expresses his/her emotions.

*
Ears pointing forward and slightly outward - your cat is relaxed and happy.
*
Ears very straight up and forward - your cat is listening to something that is intriguing.
*
Ears twitching nervously - your cat is agitated and nervous.
*
Ears flat against the head - your cat is frightened and may attack (this is instinctual as to protect the ears during a fight).
*
Ears back or in between alert and defensive position - your cat is aggressive and may attack.

Back/Fur
In general a cat's body fur remains fairly consistent; however, if you notice your cat arching his or her back and bristling you can rest assured that your cat is frightened and on the defensive. Your cat may attack at this point.

Meowing
Cats can make over 100 different vocal sounds (dogs can only make 10). These sounds encompasses a variety of meows, purrs, gurgles, and eeps which occur in a variety of tones and octaves and can mean a plethora of things. The more you talk to your cat, the more your cat will talk back and extend his/her 'vocabulary'. And a good owner will learn over time what his/her cat means by each of his/her vocal sounds. By listening to your cat and talking back, eventually you and your cat can start to 'talk' back and forth to each other with understanding. This will help the bond between you and your cat grow and entice your cat to become even more expressive.

Purring
It is still not known why cats purr. Some theories on the origin of purring include 1) the possession of false vocal cords 2) the contraction of laryngeal muscles 3) blood flow that is amplified by the diaphragm. Whatever the cause of purring a cat purrs when he or she is generally happy; although, some cats are known to only purr when they are ill. However, most cat owners will attest to the fact that their cats only purr when the are content or happy.

Growling/Hissing
Growling and or hissing means only one thing - your cat means business and wants you to back off. If your cat growls or hisses at you don't push the issue or you will be attacked.

Pupils
Cat's pupils for the most part change with the amount of the light in the room. However, if your cat become very aroused, excited or angered his/her pupils will become greatly enlarged regardless of the amount of light in the room.

Eyes
Your cats eyes can also tell you a lot about what kitty is thinking:

*
Wide open eyes - your cat is awake and ready to go
*
Wide open eyes with a little sparkle - your cat is feeling a little mischievous
*
Half closed eyes - your kitty is relaxed and ready for a cat nap! This can also mean your cat is ill if the eyes are like this on a consistent basis, even when awake.
*
Closed eyes - your cat is napping, obviously.
*
Winking/Blinking - A long slow blink means that your cat is content and relaxed.

Other Behaviors
Rolling on his/her back and exposing the belly - your cat is letting you know that he/she totally trusts you as he/she is exposing the most vulnerable part of the body. This doesn't necessarily mean that your cat wants a belly rub, just that he/she is totally comfortable with you.

Kneading - this stems from 'milk threading' that kittens do. Kittens knead their mother's belly to stimulate milk production. In doing this to you your cat is not only expressing his/her love for you as a mother-figure but also remembering the happy feelings that used to occur when the mother was kneaded.

Snoring - if your cat snores when he/she sleeps he/she is totally relaxed!

Sniffing - cats sniff each other in the wild to say hello and get to know each other. If your cat sniffs your face consider it a greeting and a way of showing that your cat trusts and likes you. Many owners even get down on the floor (face level with their cats) and touch noses when they greet.

Aggressive cats

2009-09-10T04:19:00.001-07:00

Cat aggression falls into several categories: play aggression, defensive aggression, misdirected aggression, and territorial status aggression.

Aggression toward people is a problem most commonly associated with dogs, but cat owners also deal with this issue. Though it’s not one of the top 10 reasons for turning cats over to shelters, it plays a significant role in the number of cats turned over for behavioral reasons. A 2000 study of 12 shelters by the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, published in the Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, found that about 14 percent of owners turning in their cats for behavioral reasons only listed aggression toward people as the basis, with about 9 percent citing biting. The numbers dropped only slightly, to about 11 and 8 percent, respectively, for mixed behavioral and non-behavioral reasons.

Dog bites are a community problem, affecting a larger group of people, while cat attacks tend to be a personal problem, affecting only the owner, said Dr. Kerry Muhovich, animal behavior education coordinator for the Dumb Friends League.

But cat bites can be the more dangerous injury—cats’ saliva can contain particularly harmful bacteria and can cause serious infections. "I might not think of seeing a doctor for a dog bite, but I can’t think of any cat bite I wouldn’t think of seeing a doctor for," Dr. Muhovich said. Cat scratches can also transmit bacteria.

Cat aggression falls into several categories: play aggression, defensive aggression, misdirected aggression, and territorial status aggression.

Playing rough

If a cat begins scratching or biting out of the blue, with no previous indication of violent behavior, the owner should bring it to a veterinarian. The cat may be engaging in pain aggression—acting up because of a medical problem or injury.

But the most common violent behavior is play aggression. The behavior usually occurs as a result of the owner’s actions. Owners find it nearly impossible to resist wrestling around with a tiny, playful kitten, behavior experts said.

They’ll put their hand on the kitten and roll it around as it bites and claws at them, or use their fingers or feet as toys, tapping them around, letting the kitten pounce on them.

"The kitten loves it, because it’s like playing with another kitten," said Betsy Lipscomb, president of Cats International. "Everyone is happy until the kitten starts to grow bigger, and suddenly it really hurts, and it starts to draw blood, and the owner thinks they have a vicious cat."

One family called Cats International after their cat bit a sleeping child on the face. They’d take the cat to a shelter for quarantine, but they wanted to know if there was anything they could do to fix the behavior and bring it home.

During family time, watching television, the children would sit on the floor, wrap blankets around their arms and encourage the cat to play, Ms. Lipscomb discovered. The bored cat had obviously decided to wake one of the kids up for a romp session.

When Mr. Cuthbertson first took his kitten to the veterinarian, two years ago, the vet noticed the scratches down his arms. He asked if he was playing roughly with the cat, Beaujolais. Mr. Cuthbertson admitted it. The veterinarian warned him against it, but like many owners, he ignored the advice.

"We got the front claws removed, and he doesn’t do as much damage as he used to," he said. But the cat expects 10 minutes of wrestling a day. When he signals for playtime with a nip, Mr. Cuthbertson, if he’s in the mood, will get down on the floor and let the cat pounce. "Ninety-nine percent of the time he’s totally gentle," he said. "It seems to build strength in him—he’s an inside cat, and if he’s not doing that kind of thing he has nothing to do."

But because of the dangers of cat bites and scratches, it’s best to end such playful attacks, behavior experts said. First, owners need to stop using hands and feet as playthings. Some people put on an oven mitt or puppet to play, Ms. Lipscomb said. That doesn’t make a difference—the cat still understands that it’s attacking you.

Instead, owners need to transfer all play activity to toys: soft toys they can throw, pole toys that put distance between the handler and the object of the attack. Cats are especially fond of pole toys, which resemble fishing poles and come with fluttering objects, like feathers, on the end of a long line. (Always supervise your cat while playing with pole toys.) Hands and feet need to be off-limit.

Becky Schultz, coordinator of the animal training and behavior programs for the Animal Humane Society, Golden Valley, Minn., recalled how her young sister would always have her feet attacked by the cat. If the cat likes to lie in wait for you as you round a corner, be sure that you have an ample supply of toys that you can toss to redirect the play activity, she said. If your child has a problem with cat attacks, let him or her wear a squirt gun on a string around the neck (assuming the kid is mature enough to use this device properly). A squirt of water can be an effective deterrent, and the kids usually love taking on that responsibility.

Other deterrents include shake cans, behavior experts said. But Ms. Lipscomb doesn’t recommend those, simply because you may not always have them with you. "It has to happen the moment the cat goes after you," she said.

When a cat tries to attack, make a loud sound unlike anything that usually comes from your mouth, she said: "Your voice is something that you always have with you."

Cats International recommends an "Eek!" noise, loud and shrill enough to startle the cat and make it back off. Follow that with a sharp "No!" and then ignore the cat for 10 minutes. Don’t look at it, talk to it, or touch it. "Often what it wanted when it attacked you was attention," Ms. Lipscomb said.

Getting your pet a companion can also cut down on play aggression, since it suddenly has another animal to play with. Owners can help prevent play aggression by not removing the kittens from their litter before eight weeks at a minimum. While the kittens are with their littermates and mother, they wrestle among themselves, learning through corrections from the other animals not to attack too hard or too aggressively.

Stopping play aggression can occur fairly swiftly, sometimes within a week, if owners make the necessary changes, Ms. Lipscomb said. The family whose cat ended up in a shelter brought it home, and checking in a month later reported no problems. When she caught up with them again, two years later, the cat was still doing fine. "It’s just a matter of training people," she said. "If you act like another cat, it’s going to treat you like another cat."

On the defensive

Cats have a tendency to become overstimulated during an activity owners think should be very relaxing—petting. When this happens, they can lash out with teeth or claws. "Different cats have different levels," Ms. Schultz said. "One cat you can pet twice and it’s had enough, others are at the other extreme, where they won’t let you stop petting them."

Owners need to transfer all play activity to toys: soft toys they can throw, pole toys that put distance between the handler and the object of the attack.

It’s important for owners to figure out their animal’s tolerance level, and to watch for signs that the cat is growing tired of the stroking. Twitching tail, laid-back ears, a sudden pointed stare—all are indicators that the cat has grown tired of the attention. In those cases, the owner should just stop petting, stand up, and let the cat go.

It’s possible to increase your cat’s willingness to spend time with you, but that takes time and effort. Owners need to build up a tolerance for petting by giving the cat treats for good behavior. As long as the cat stays calm, it gets treats. Gradually, over the course of days, lengthen the time between treats. When the cat wants to get down from your lap, let it, and give it a good, long break before you try again, Dr. Muhovich said.

Cats can also engage in defensive aggression if they feel cornered, or if they encounter a smell—like the scent of a veterinary office—that disturbs them. Cats don’t necessarily have to have experienced a traumatic event to react badly, Dr. Muhovich said. A cat that dislikes men wasn’t necessarily abused by a man. "If it’s foreign to a cat’s experience, it’s a form of ‘better safe than sorry,’" she said. "If the character of the person is different than what it’s used to, it may just decide to play it safe."

In those cases, it’s best to let the cat adjust gradually to the newness, using treats and play sessions to convince it of the harmlessness of the stranger. Don’t force the issue.

Other types of aggression

Redirected aggression occurs when a cat becomes disturbed by an event or object separate from the target of its attack. A cat might see another cat out the window, and lash out at its owner. The best way to deal with that type of aggression is to remove the object of the cat’s hostility—close the blinds.

Few cats fall into the territorial or status aggression category, at least toward people. Cats often vie for position among themselves, but it’s generally understood that the person providing the food shouldn’t be messed with.

But it happens. Breeds like the Siamese or Burmese seem particularly susceptible to this kind of aggression, Ms. Lipscomb said.

One woman called Ms. Schultz to say that her cat was a fine pet until it got angry—then it would chase and attack her. The woman could see by the cat’s body language that an attack was coming, and would grab it and hastily deposit it outside, where it would hop up and down, trying to open the door. The cat would also chase dogs and bikes.

A cat that’s being play aggressive won’t make any sounds. A truly hostile cat will growl or hiss as it advances.

Ms. Lipscomb’s daughter once baby-sat for a family with a hostile Siamese. The cat was sitting on top of the television, glaring at her as she tried to change the channel. When she accidentally touched the cat, it went after her. She grabbed a cushion off the couch to keep between her and the cat, and had to finally wake up the children to put the animal in the basement. When she mentioned the incident later to the owners, they said they’d been told as much by other babysitters, but hadn’t believed them.

Another cat wouldn’t let a caretaker get too close to her injured owner, Ms. Lipscomb recalled. The caretaker was patient enough to work with the cat until it grew accustomed to her presence, and the therapy could proceed. Cats can also guard their food, litter boxes, or sleeping areas.

Owners can tell the difference between real aggression and play aggression by listening to the cat’s vocalizations, Ms. Lipscomb said.

A cat that’s being play aggressive won’t make any sounds. A truly hostile cat will growl or hiss as it advances.

Status or territorial aggression will often need to be dealt with by a professional behaviorist who can assess the cat’s behavior, identify the triggers, and work at modifying them, behavior experts said. Behaviorists will use desensitization (repeated exposure to the trigger) and counter-conditioning (reinforcement that changes the perception of the trigger) to lessen the cat’s aggressive behavior. Some will teach commands to enforce the status of the owner, using rewards and clicker training.

Owners should never hit their cats to discourage aggression, behavior experts said. The cat doesn’t understand the correction, and striking it can make it fearful and more defensive than it was before.

Any kind of aggression needs to be dealt with as soon as possible, behavior experts said. Cats given to shelters because of behavior problems, according to the NCPPSP study, are usually relinquished one to two years after they’re obtained. "It erodes the relationship between the owner and the cat," Ms. Schultz said. "The owner isn’t sure if its going to get bitten, the cat thinks it’s going to get smacked, so whenever they come together there’s a lot of tension."

Canine Leptospirosis

2009-09-10T04:18:00.001-07:00

Summertime’s warm weather means that dogs get to spend more time playing outside. A great majority of dogs love to swim at the cottage and explore the different smells the environment has to offer. Summertime also means that local wildlife, such as raccoons and skunks, are out and about looking for food and raising their families. Unfortunately, as harmless as most of these critters are, they often carry many infectious organisms transmissible to other animals and humans. One of these organisms has recently re-emerged in the companion animal world, an agent that causes the disease known as Leptospirosis.

The bacterium Leptospira comes in an assorted variety (known as “serovars”). Each serovar is host-adapted, meaning it preferentially infects a selected mammalian species and uses it as its carrier species.

For example, the host species for the serovar “grippotyphosa” are raccoons and skunks. When an animal belonging to the host species is infected, the disease is usually mild and may go unnoticed. The animal can live its lifetime unaffected symptomatically by this bacterium, but at the same time can be continuously shedding the organism. If the same serovar, shed from the host animal, goes on to infect an animal that is not a host species, such as a dog, the severity of disease produced can range from undetectable to severe. There are several serovars that are known to cause disease in dogs, and these are most commonly found in raccoons, skunks, voles, mice, cattle, and pigs.

Leptospirosis was an important disease affecting domestic animals in the 1970’s. Thanks to an increased awareness and a rigorous vaccination protocol, the incidence of disease has decreased over the years. However, dogs can become severely ill with the new serovars that have recently emerged, prompting some concern in the veterinary community.

The bacterium survives best in warm, moist weather, and as a result, Leptospirosis is most commonly diagnosed in the spring and autumn. The organism is shed in the urine of infected animals and can survive in the environment, under ideal conditions, for up to six weeks. Dogs may become infected by contact with contaminated water bowls, puddles and streams, wet grass, soil, or food. Infection requires only ingestion of the bacterium or contact with mucous membranes such as the gums or nose. It has been reported that the incidence of infection is highest in large-breed dogs, such as Retrievers, Shepherds, mixed breeds, and working dogs. This, however, is likely related to the amount of time the dog spends outdoors, since larger breeds tend to enjoy activities such as swimming a little more than smaller breeds. Infection can occur in both suburban and rural areas, with a higher incidence reported in suburban locations.

The majority of Leptospirosis infections in dogs are subclinical, meaning no obvious symptoms of illness are present. These infections go unnoticed and the dog may exhibit no more than some “flu” symptoms for one or two days. More serious infections, however, are not uncommon and aggressive treatment is necessary. Animals may not show signs of disease for several weeks after infection with the bacterium. The organism causes damage to the blood vessels, especially in the kidney and liver. When serious, kidney failure and severe liver disease can occur. The dog may show non-specific signs of disease, such as vomiting, dehydration, fever, loss of appetite, or sudden collapse. The mucous membranes may develop a yellow tinge (indicating liver disease) and the dog’s water intake may suddenly increase (and subsequently urination). Permanent organ failure and even death can result if the disease goes untreated. In general, the earlier the disease is diagnosed and treatment started, the better the prognosis for preserving organ function.

Diagnosis of the infection is not always easy and can require several consecutive blood tests for confirmation. Your veterinarian will check for blood abnormalities and signs of organ dysfunction, paying particular attention to the liver and kidneys. A specific screen for antibodies against the Leptospira serovars will also be done, which appear in the blood seven to ten days after infection and continue to rise for a little while afterwards. While waiting for the test results, your veterinarian may begin treatment after making a presumptive diagnosis based or your dog’s history and symptoms.

As Leptospirosis can result in kidney failure and severe liver disease, immediate and aggressive treatment with intravenous fluids and a long course of antibiotics is required. A lengthy stay in the hospital may be necessary until the dog is stable enough to maintain adequate hydration on its own. The antibiotics used are quite effective if a dog is treated early on in the infection, with a good chance of recovery if no organ damage has occurred.

Finally, it should be noted that Leptospirosis is zoonotic, meaning that it can be transmitted to humans. This can occur through contamination of the environment or via an infected dog shedding the organism. It is considered rare, however, for a human to acquire the disease from an infected dog, and is usually related to occupational hazard (such as veterinarians and wildlife rehabilitators). In humans, most cases are mild and some may even go unnoticed. Rarely, an infected person may experience severe disease with symptoms such as sudden fever and chills, severe headache, vomiting, muscle pains, and/or abdominal pain. If left untreated, meningitis, kidney failure, and liver disease can develop, much like in dogs. Sanitation is likely the most effective way to prevent transmission from an infected dog to human, with protective clothing, frequent hand washing, and disinfection of possibly contaminated surfaces.

Since climate change results in warmer temperatures and infection with Leptospira can be so devastating, vaccination of dogs at risk is highly recommended. There is now a widely used vaccine for the most important Leptospira serovars, and its efficacy has been reported to be quite good. The vaccine provides one year of protection, and dogs are boostered annually along with their other vaccines. Rodent and wildlife control in the area is also important to keep the risk of infection low. It is difficult and not practical to keep a dog from swimming, but it is recommended that standing water be removed and that the dog’s water and food bowl not be left outside. With all the preventative measures in place, you can be sure that your dog’s risk of infection will be low and that you are doing the best you can to prevent Leptospirosis.

Bloat in dogs

2009-09-10T04:17:00.001-07:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.

The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.

Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.

Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.

What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.

If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.

Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

Addison's Disease in Dogs

2009-09-10T04:16:00.001-07:00

The inconspicuous adrenal glands are small but important organs which serve many functions in maintaining hormone levels. Diseases that affect the adrenal glands may have deleterious effects on the body. Addison’s disease, also known as hypoadrenocorticism, is a disease of the adrenal glands that results in a deficiency of either glucocorticoids or mineralocorticoids or both.

Glucocorticoids, such as cortisol, are involved with protein, lipid and carbohydrate metabolism and therefore affect blood glucose levels. Mineralocorticoids are adrenal steroids which have an effect on ion transport by epithelial cells, resulting in a loss of potassium and retention of sodium. In the case of a dog with Addison’s disease, the decreased production of glucocorticoids and/or mineralocorticoids will be reflected in blood biochemical values.

Addison’s disease is often referred to as “the great pretender” because the signs it causes are nonspecific. Clinical signs include lethargy, loss of appetite, weight loss, diarrhea, increased drinking, and vomiting. All of those signs can be attributed to a wide range of other diseases, so it may sometimes be difficult to diagnose. However, when a dog has repeated episodes of the above signs, Addison’s should be a suspect. This is especially true if the episodes were precipitated by a stressful event, such as a busy party or loud thunderstorm. Most cases of Addison’s disease are related to an immune-mediated process which destroys the adrenal tissue.

Occasionally, a dog may suffer from an acute episode of Addison’s disease which presents as generalized weakness, a low heart rate, heart arrhythmia (abnormal heart beat), collapse and shock. The dog will find him/herself in the emergency room and will require immediate aggressive fluid therapy, steroids and electrolytes to recover.

Although Addison’s disease can occur at any age and affect any breed or sex, it is most common in young adult female dogs. Addison’s disease has been reported in dogs as young as eight weeks of age, but the mean age of dogs at the time of diagnosis is 4 years. Breeds that may be genetically predisposed to developing Addison’s disease include the Great Dane, Portuguese Water Dog, Rottweiler, Standard Poodle, and the West Highland White Terrier.

The first step in diagnosing the disease is using a blood panel to analyze blood biochemistry levels. Addisonian dogs have unbalanced sodium and potassium levels due to the kidney’s inability to regulate those electrolytes. Liver enzymes and kidney values are also commonly elevated. To reach a definitive diagnosis, blood cortisol levels must be measured. An adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) test is performed. This test involves two blood samples. The first blood sample is drawn and then the patient is given an injection of ACTH. A second blood sample is taken a few hours later. Cortisol is measured in both samples and the two results are compared. A patient with Addison’s has a low baseline cortisol level that fails to rise after stimulation with ACTH. ACTH normally stimulates the adrenal cortex to produce glucocorticoids and mineralocorticoids. Failure of the adrenals to respond to ACTH results in an inadequate production of the hormones, which leads to the clinical signs associated with the disease.

Treatment of Addison’s disease involves supplementing the dog with both types of adrenal steroids. One steroid, called prednisone, is given at a very low dose to boost glucocorticoid levels. Another drug called fludrocortisone acetate helps replenish mineralocorticoid levels. Both drugs are given orally. An alternative to oral medications is an injection of desoxycorticosterone pivalate (DOCP), which is given about once per month. The clinical signs of Addison’s disease usually disappear after fine-tuning the treatment protocol, and protocols may vary from dog to dog. Close monitoring of blood levels to ensure that the medications are working as they should is important.

For an acute Addisonian crisis, the dog is treated as an emergency case. Aggressive treatment with IV fluids, steroids and glucose are indicated. Once stabilized, Addisonian dogs have a good prognosis and can continue to live long, happy lives.

Dogs and Their Anal Sacs

2009-09-10T04:11:00.000-07:00

Every dog is unique. Some are star athletes, while others are couch potatoes. Some can fit inside a purse, while others can barely fit in the backseat of a car. Some are cute and cuddly, while others are noble and independent. Whether your dog is fast or slow, big or small, affectionate or aloof, there is one thing that all of our canine companions have in common: although it's not a glorious activity from our human point of view, dogs love to sniff each other’s butts.

Of course it seems crude to us of the human variety, but in the dog world, sniffing another’s rear end is simply a social custom. Not unlike a handshake and introduction, or an exchange of business cards, dogs gain valuable information from sniffing around down there. Each dog has a unique scent that is produced by structures called anal glands (or anal sacs). While many owners aren’t even aware that these glands exist, they play an important role in a dog's social behaviour; dogs use this scent to identify one another, as a form of communication, and as a way to mark their territory.

Anal glands are located just beneath the skin on either side of the anus (at positions 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock). They secrete a foul-smelling liquid which travels through small tubules to openings on either side of the anus. Believe it or not, every time your pet urinates or defecates, a tiny bit of this liquid is released as well, contributing to your dog’s personal fragrance. Similarly, when two dogs meet in the park, the action of raising their tails puts pressure on the anal glands, causing the butt sniffing to start in the first place.

The reason most owners are oblivious to the existence of anal glands, is because most of the time, they don’t cause any problems. For the majority of dogs, anal glands go about their business and express their liquid with each bowel movement and under appropriate social circumstances. However, in some cases, anal glands fail to empty sufficiently and can cause a number of issues for your pet.

The most common problem with anal glands occurs when lack of expression (emptying them) results in impaction. This is extremely uncomfortable for the dog who will usually let his owners know that there is a problem. Typical signs of anal gland impaction include scooting (dragging their rear ends along the ground) or licking/biting at their rear end. Some dogs will also present with loose stools. Fortunately, anal gland impaction can usually be cleared up quickly by your veterinarian. Veterinarians (as well as some breeders and groomers) are proficient at manually expressing anal glands to remove all of the secretion that has built up inside them. Often, one trip to the vet’s office will be enough to relieve your dog’s discomfort, however for other dogs anal gland impaction is an ongoing problem.

There are a variety of reasons why a dog might have trouble expressing its anal glands properly. Sometimes it is simply due to the conformation of the particular dog, or breed of dog. Other times it depends on the thickness of the secretion itself which may be too viscous to express easily. Also, the size and consistency of an animal’s stools can affect anal gland function. Stools which are too small or too soft might not put sufficient pressure on the glands to cause expression. For dogs who are suffering from chronic or recurring anal gland impaction, it is important to make sure they eat a high quality food which is high enough in fibre to ensure large solid stools. In some cases, it is recommended that a dog’s anal glands be surgically removed. This is a fairly simple procedure that can permanently solve the problem.

In addition to anal gland impaction (an uncomfortable, but fairly benign condition), some dogs will also suffer from infections and abscesses of the anal gland. This occurs when bacteria travels from around the anal opening through the tubules to the glands. When this bacteria builds up, serious infections can develop. If left untreated, abscesses can develop fairly quickly. In this case, dogs generally experience pain (as opposed to mere discomfort). Dogs will often present by biting or growling when one tries to touch them anywhere in the general area. Anal gland infections can be treated with antibiotics from your veterinarian. If the infection progresses to the abscess stage however, other complications may arise. It is therefore important to bring your dog to the vet as soon as you notice any signs that might indicate an anal gland problem.

For those dog owners who have never had to deal with an anal gland problem, consider yourselves lucky. As unpleasant as it may be to think about, your dog’s anal glands are as much as part of him as his cute little nose and his fluffy tail. Now that you know they exist, it is important to watch for any signs of anal gland problems in your pet.

Economical And Safe For Your Little Pooch

2009-09-09T09:28:00.000-07:00

Dog Grooming Supplies

2009-09-09T09:22:00.000-07:00

All pet owners want their pets to look the best. This is only possible when their pets are healthy. The road to your pet's good health is by providing him with optimum nutrition, routine exercise, regular grooming and adequate veterinary care. Dog grooming supplies are the basic equipments that aid in the day-to-day upkeep of your dog. For regular grooming of your dog you should choose appropriate dog grooming supplies based on his specific needs.

For proper brushing of your dog's hair, you would require different brushes and combs. The bristle brush is used most commonly. If your dog has medium to long hair, you should use wire pin brushes and slicker brushes. Dog grooming supplies also include slicker brushes, which will help you to remove the tangles and mats. To sort out more severe mats and tangles, rakes and mat breakers could be of great use. To detect fleas and prevent them make sure to use flea combs at regular intervals. During the shedding season, you will require shedding tools for extra hair care of your canine. These shedding tools not only remove excess hair but also help to minimize shedding. If you own a short haired dog, then there is almost no need of cutting his hair. However, if your dog has continuously growing hair then you need to cut his hair either every fortnight or at the end of each month. You could use electric clippers for this purpose. If you are not adequately trained for this, then you should leave this job in the hands of trained professionals who at times use hair cutting scissors.

Dog grooming supplies include trimmers with or without springs for trimming your dog's nails. You may use trimmers like Claw-style Trimmers, Guillotine Trimmers or Scissor-like Trimmers depending on the length and texture of your dog's nails. If trimming seems difficult for you or quite painful for your pet, then you can use power rotary tools for filing his nails.

Dog ears are another area which require proper care. If neglected, your dog may even suffer from ear infections. With the aid of dog grooming supplies like ear cleansers and cotton balls, you can effectively clean your dog's ears. To pluck excess hair you would need hemostats. Do not try this by yourself if you are inexperienced. In case your dog acquires an infection, consult your veterinarian for special dog grooming supplies like ear medications.

Most dog owners bathe their pet once a month. If you are one of them, ensure that you use the right dog grooming supplies for him. Experts recommend the use of soap-free shampoos specific to your dogs' skin and coat type. You may either choose chemical free natural shampoos or medicated shampoos depending upon your dog's skin condition. If your dog cries while bathing you can use tear-free shampoos. You could even opt for conditioners to maintain your dog's smooth and shiny coat. All these dog grooming supplies will help you to make your dog look prim and proper.